Gingerbread and Champagne Marshmallows

Every year the residents of the street that I live on get together, put up some christmas lights and catch up on the year parts or in the case of new people to the street, meet everyone else. We all bought a plate or two. Given how my marshmallows went over at my housewarming earlier in the year and that the neighbors that I did invite liked them I thought I’d make some more. Something a bit more festive than last time though; gingerbread and champagne.

They both went down quite well amongst the people in the street with no real clear favorite. The champagne flavour was quite subtle but there nonetheless and the gingerbread tasted just like you’d expect, just more fluffy in texture.

Gingerbread and Champagne Marshmallows

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4 Hour Roast Beef with Red Wine Sauce

Yesterday I cooked for some good friends of mine and since I’m not working right now I had the time for slow roast beef. In all honesty, dinner didn’t quite pull together as planned for a number of reasons but mostly because I’d had a fair bit of red wine by the end of the roasting time. Have you ever tried to make pasta drunk? It took all day to get rid of the flour from the kitchen today. Still, it was tasty.

It’s a fairly straight forward recipe and really takes no time at all to cook prepare, especially if you buy pre-made pasta. The red wine sauce needs thickening after cooking which I didn’t do, I’ve also reduced the quantity of liquid in the recipe below to aide that. Please don’t forget or skip the pancetta, it made what would otherwise be a pretty plain sauce.

4 Hour Roast Beef Rump in Red Wine Sauce
4 Hour Roast Beef Rump in Red Wine Sauce

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White Degustation and the Hilton Auckland

I had to go back to Sydney early from my New Zealand trip so I can sit an exam and since I hadn’t had any luck finding the quite space I needed to read the text books I’d lugged around with me thus far I booked myself two days in Harbour View room at the Hilton Auckland (I got a good deal at wotif). The hotel itself is smaller than I thought and felt cramped every time I walked through the lobby but the rest of the hotel is quite spacious. The room I was in had a very large marble bathroom with separate bath and shower, the rest of the room contained a king size bed, 32” LCD TV and DVD player and a desk. Then there was the balcony - the same size as the room itself! The only complaint with it is that even though there are double sliding doors opening on to it, there was a concrete pillar in the middle of them making getting outside a little awkward and blocked the view from inside.

Nasi Goreng @ Hilton Auckland
I hadn’t had breakfast that morning so once I settled into the room, opened all the draws and flicked all the light switches I had a look at the room service menu. There was all of the standard fare you get at the Hilton plus the specialised items from the hotels restaurant. I ordered the Nasi Goreng, just a light meal. Presented well, the rice moulded in a bowl and turned out into the plate with a fried egg across the top, tomato and cucumber slices fanned around the edge and individual bowls of chili paste, soy and dried fish so they could all be added to taste, a single large prawn cracker and three small chicken satay skewers to the side. Flavour wise it was more subtle than I’m used to, all of the flavours were balanced so it was a clearly deliberate choice and it certainly wasn’t bland per se but I could see a lot of people thinking it was.

The second night I stayed I went to White, the hotel’s restaurant with Italian chef Cristiano De Martin running the show. You can see his European training and years of dedicated practice in the way every dish was executed, starting with the produce then preparation and cooking then finally the presentation. De Martin’s dedication to his food extends to joint venture called Homegrown with NZ primary producers to source the best ingredients. I can’t see any losers here, especially as I get presented with my first course.

Starting off with Heart of the Desert saffron infused carrot soup with parsley foam it’s not surprising De Martin highlights one of his Homegrown partners in Heart of the Desert saffron. Who knew that NZ can grow it given 90% of the world production is from Iran? The soup itself was good blending the more complex earthier kiwi saffron standing up against fresh sweet carrots. The parsley foam was wispy and delicate adding a level of texture and evening out the parsley flavour so that no mouthful could ever be overpowed with a herb than can taste like grass if you get a mouthful of it unexpectedly.

Contrasting the soup’s delicate flavour profile is the Northland kingfish carpaccio, spiced shallots with citrus and sesame dressing and mini coriander leaves hitting you with an incredible burst starting out with the lime that is made palatable with the shallots, coriander and sesame on the finish. Without any one of these the dish wouldn’t balance but here all of the flavours are inline leaving you with the amazingly fresh kingfish carpaccio. The mouthfeel of the slightly oily kingfish sliced paper thin and served raw as it melds itself with the rest of the flavours creating one of those moments you sit up and pay attention to what you’re eating.

I love duck and I eat it quite often but until now I hadn’t actually had the chance to make or try tea smoked duck. I made tea smoked snapper a few weeks ago as a trial before I give it ago on duck. Now I’ve got a gold standard to aim for. A salad of tea smoked duck resting on crisp filo pastry, pistachio, celery and grapes with a blueberry and riesling verjus dressing was a familiar yet different taste. Smoking the duck adds a soft undertone to each bite that while you can tell it is there, at no point does it distract you from the duck itself or any other ingredient. Pistachio as a nut has an odd flavour that wouldn’t have worked if the duck wasn’t smoked. A lesser chef would have either used hazelnut that I think would have enhanced the smoke and overpowered the rest of the salad or blanched almods simply for texture. The filo pastry was disappointing, it seemed more like a layer of cardboard where I was expecting the salad to be perched on top of individual layers of delicate filo. Did you notice something missing in the picture? When I was served the dish I thought it was odd but there isn’t a black/purple drizzle across the top. I’m not sure how they did it, but blueberry skin wasn’t in the ingredient list for the dressing so it’s is perfectly clear. The two black half circles are grapes.

Scallops are tender pillows of shellfish that have a sweeter meat than crayfish. Their intense flavour, despite that they’re physically delicate, means they can carry other strong flavours and De Martin picked almost a surf and turf with Spirits Bay scallops seared with crispy pancetta, apple pureé and a snow pea salad with cabernet sauvignon vinegar glaze. Even before the plate lands you can smell the pancetta and the bacon instinct kicks in and your nose is in the air trying to breathe it all in. The pancetta releases so much of it’s flavour as it’s friend in the pan next to the scallops that they seem to soak it up like a sponge. The drizzle of glaze on the plate was incredibly intense and perfect for cutting through the pancetta’s fat so you can reclaim the scallop’s individuality.

The Assistant Manager (who did an amazing job all night) disagreed with the chef on his choice of wine for a number of dishes and I either saw her point or agreed completely. This time I only saw her point. She gave me some of the listed wine, a Cloudy Bay ‘08 Sauvignon Blanc, and the wine she thought was best, a Brancott ‘07 Sauvignon Blanc, both from the Malborough. I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t have said either were a perfect match but then I can’t say what would have been either. The Cloudy Bay was good at balancing the glaze and pancetta but destroyed the apple and scallop where as the Brancott was obliterated by the fat. Given the focus of this dish was scallops, not pancetta I’d have erred on the side of caution and taken the Bancott as the manager suggested.

Kaffir Lime Sorbet @ White, Auckland NZ
A Kaffir Lime sorbet broke the meal. It tasted like the only possible way you could have that much lime flavour in a that glass was if someone froze and blended the lime itself. It had such a fresh taste to it, probably enhanced by the fact it was frozen, but it could have easily been the smell of a fresh picked lime. My guess is it was probably oil from the skin being sprayed in to and incorporated with the mix.






The headline of the show for an international hotel in NZ was of course the Hawke’s Bay lamb loin roasted with garden herbs, parsnip créme and crisps, manuka smoked olives, lemon and Te Arai Extra Virgin emulsion. The lamb was cooked a touch longer than I’d have liked but within tolerances for medium-rare so it did benefit from the olive oil and parsnip mash for moistness. That’s not to say it wasn’t full of flavour; I’d say the kiwi’s have made a good go at it. Infact given the better farming and grazing weather in NZ for the past few years, their lambs might just be better than the Australians. For now. Picking up some of the smoked olives with the lamb made for a nice way to extend the otherwise limited range of flavours on the plate, the parsnips and olive oil seemed to take on a new life. Half way through I’d ran out and wished there were more, olives, not parsnip.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get the names of the two cheeses served on this course but they seemed along the lines of a mature cheddar and a firmer white mould cheese along the lines of a costello perhaps? As I was dining alone, I think I received a hastily cut down portion. There was just simply not enough cheese to try all of the condiments with at least one cheese, there weren’t even enough wafers. Still, it was nice for a course designed to transition your palette from red meat to dessert.




Chef's Selection of Desserts @ White, Auckland NZ
Of course, at the end of any meal you can’t go past dessert and what a dessert. The menu called for a chef’s selection and I don’t think there was anything left he hadn’t selected. When this course came up I was offered an extra glass of wine because there had been ‘an issue’ in the kitchen and I would have to wait an extra 10 minutes or so. What I think it was is that they couldn’t figure out how to present a dessert platter that’s designed for two people to a single person when most of the items are either slivers anyway or single units. Half a scoop of ice-cream anyone? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that if there were two people that I would have been disappointed with the portion size, there are four separate desserts for heavens sake but to cut them down further would have been unsightly. Which is why I got a dessert platter for two! It goes without saying that every single one of these desserts were delicious and flavour packed. No surprises in the taste, they were almost concentrated in their own flavour. So clockwise from the back we’ve got an apple galette topped with vanilla ice cream, vanilla panna-cotta with raspberry compote, lemon cheesecake, dark chocolate hazelnut torte with a scoop of hazelnut ice-cream.


I ordered an espresso to go with the petit four which was basically a sphere of pear and cream that finished the meal as I sat and waited for it to move itself below my centre of gravity and chatted to an Australian couple that also had the degustation whom asked me how I enjoyed it and gave them my Red Whisk business card so they can come and look at the pictures. My sincerest apologies have to go to them for the delay in posting this article.

All in all, I really quite enjoyed visiting (and not as their guest, this was fully funded by The Red Whisk). Next time I visit Auckland I’m going to have to stay at the Hilton again. As far as international standards go the Hilton here is above the average. Sure there are some things that could be done better but they’re probably not going to be picked up or worried over by your average consumer. As for the restaurant, the service of the assistant manager scored herself a very generous tip for her friendly yet professional service keeping the person dining alone who didn’t bring a book to read company, her generosity in pouring wine and offering not only and alternative to the listed wines, but both!



Hilton Auckland and White Restaurant
Princess Wharf. 147 Quay Street
Auckland. 1010
NEW ZEALAND
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Snapper with Red Pepper Sauce with Been and Pumpkin Salad

Okay, with out a doubt it’s time to eat better and I’d say this is a call out to anyone that knows me personally to keep me in check and make sure that I’m eating better than I usually do but if you know me I’ll probably just go fry some bacon and crack another beer. Saying that though - my saving grace as far as food goes is that I really like fish, so the more of that I can get the better, even if it just happens to be healthy. Sauvignon Blanc is just tasty grape juice, right?

Oh, and I really appologise for calling capsicum ‘red pepper’ but the name didn’t sound right otherwise.


Snapper with Red Pepper Sauce with Been and Pumpkin Salad
Snapper with Red Pepper Sauce with Been and Pumpkin Salad

Snapper with Red Pepper Sauce with Been and Pumpkin Salad - Serves 4
2 red capsicums (peppers), sliced
½ a white onion, sliced
½ cup of white vinegar
½ cup of water
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 teaspoons of dried oregano
500 grams of green beans, topped and tailed
250 grams of pumpkin
2 fresh tomatoes, sliced and seeded
100 grams of sun-dried tomatoes, sliced
1 tomato, sliced and seeded
2 teaspoons of sesame seeds
4 snapper fillets
Salt and Pepper
Olive Oil

Put capsicum, onion, vinegar, garlic, water a couple of the sun-dried tomatoes and oregano in a saucepan and simmer on a very low heat for 15 minutes or so. When the capsicum is very soft, mix it up with a stick mixer until smooth. Keep the sauce warm until you’re ready to serve (it makes a great pizza sauce too).

Steam the pumpkin until just tender, remove and steam the beans until crisp. Mix in the remaining sun-dried tomatoes, sesame seeds and a little olive oil.

Heat a grill to a medium-low temp and season the fish with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil. When the grill is warm put the fish under and grill for about 15 minutes, until the fish is firm to touch but still moist.

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Moving into Red Wine Season with Chorizo, Lentils and Donna Hay

Taking another queue from Donna Hay this week I picked out her Chorizo and Lentil umm, stew? It seemed a pretty simple recipe and it was but at the same time I don't think there was a lot of accuracy in the Donna Hay test kitchen the day they wrote that one. The lentils had to simmer for almost an hour instead of 25 minutes. I haven't cooked with lentils very often but I've heard that salt can retard the cooking process, stopping them from softening. I used salt reduced chicken stock and didn't add any salt opposed to what the recipe said but they still stayed firmer than I had hoped and given the extra cooking time the colour from the celery had drained out and wasn't any where near as vivid as in the picture in the magazine. It also seemed to make four good sized serves instead of the 2 it was meant to make. It's a simple recipe, give it a go sometime.

Chorizo and Green Lentils
Chorizo and Green Lentils

Chorizo and Lentils
1 Onion, diced
2 Chorizo, diced
4 Sticks of celery, diced
6 Sprigs of thyme
2 Cups of green lentils
1L of chicken stock
Salt and Pepper
2T of red wine vinegar (I subbed balsamic)


Fry the onion and chorizo together until the sausage is crispy on medium heat, around 8 minutes.
Add the celery, thyme, fry for another 5 minutes.
Add the lentils and stock and simmer for 25 minutes until the lentils are soft (mine took almost an hour).
Stir through the vinegar and serve. I had some toast with mine to soak up the juices.


Saying all that though, it was really quite tasty, even given my blocked nose from my cold. Perhaps the surprisingly good cheap bottle of wine helped? I picked up a bottle of Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon direct from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. It was the smoothest Cab Sav I've had in years. Aged in French Oak it has fantastic cherry, strawberry raspberry and vanilla flavours and for $12 a bottle, how can you complain? I'm going to pick up another dozen bottles when I can.

Cono Sur Organic Cab Sav
Cono Sur Organic Cab Sav

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Thyme² & the Cuvee Bar @ the Sofitel Brisbane

The star rating system for hotels doesn’t tell you how good a hotel is, just what it offers and the Sofitel Brisbane is a 5-Star example of it. As I said, they come down to what a hotel offers, is there a hairdryer in the bathroom? Is there an iron the cupboard? How about a gym and pool? The Sofitel gets its 5-star rating because it’s got more than one restaurant/bar but they only have to have them, they don’t need to be any good.

Let’s start with the Cuvee Bar. Every bar everywhere has an unwritten etiquette to follow and it’s always different but not unreasonable and usually boils down to how the manager of the establishment likes his or her staff to act, and that’s it – it’s a guide for the staff, not the patrons. May be it was me, I made the place look untidy or something, but if a customer wants to order a drink from the bar here, they’re promptly dismissed and told to take a seat before an order will be taken. Even if I try making an order I’m still told to take a seat for the waiter to come and take my order. It’s down right rude and even worse; the wait-staff aren’t very knowledgeable with their drinks unlike the bartender I had questions for who told me to go and sit down. Is your apple martini sour or sweet? Could I get a twist of lime instead of lemon? Would you mind not straining the ice from my cocktail? Every question the wait-staff gets that look puppies do when you poke your tongue out at them. Once they scamper off to ask the bartender, they come back and you have a follow-up question. The routine continues until you give up and say “I’ll just have a gin and tonic then” or your presented with a drink you didn’t want and it takes you a few sips to realise that the inept wait-staff have bought you the another table’s drinks; and their bill!

When you finally get your order, the way you want it, it’ll be easier to pay cash than try and charge the drinks to your room. I know it wasn’t this guys first time charging drinks to a room, he’d served me before, but from my seat you could tell he was struggling.

Thyme² is mainly setup for a buffet or as the Sofitelians like to call it, an ‘interactive experience'. I’ve mentioned before that the breakfasts there are great, for $30, serving you everything you’d want in a breakfast. The dinners seem to be the same. Miles and I didn’t have the buffet dinner when we were there, we did see it though. Couples with children, like seagulls taking turns ferrying overflowing plates of oysters, prawns and everything else they could scavenge back to their offspring. For $80 a head (wine not included) if you’ve got the mentality to eat your monies worth its probably good value but we felt like something smaller, so we went for the ala carte menu.

You can tell head chef Marshall Orton has planned for 90% of his clientelé to take the buffet option; it sure looked like they did. I only saw two other tables out of the full restaurant ordering off the menu and a queue for the seafood. The menu is short and has fairly simple dishes from and nothing you wouldn’t expect to see at a pub with the obligatory pad thai, t-bone with chips, fish (roast snapper) and a tandori chicken. It all seemed fairly pedestrian with only Miles’s meal served with any restaurant flare and by that I mean everything was stacked on top of each other. The current menu can be found on the website.

One nice touch was the appetizer that was served to us, a small ball of duck confit and orange marmalade served on a bed of lettuce. It tasted quite bland an uninteresting, but as it turns out they forgot the orange marmalade on ours. This wasn’t the only thing that was missing from the dishes we were served either. I ended up ordering the t-bone with “a roast tomato ragu and a creamy pepper sauce served with shoestring french fries”. The roast tomato ragu at least had tomato in it but it was just roughly diced fresh tomato in a warmed up pasta sauce – there was no way these tomatoes could have ever seen the inside of an oven; there wasn’t even the slightest hint of caramlisation any good roasted tomato has. The fries seemed to be of the McCain variety, either deep fried at too low a temperature or were left to defrost and get laden with water leaving them soggy. The pepper jus that was served was honestly very nice, rich thick and concentrated with steak, balsamic vinegar and rosemary flavours and would have gone very well with the roasted tomato ragu, if it had had roast tomato in it. Note that I said it was a pepper jus and not a creamy pepper sauce? Guess what was missing. I find it difficult to believe that a restaurant of this size and supposed calibre can deliver very basic dishes so far removed from the menu.

Miles also had the beef. A 120 day grain fed Darling Downs beef filet served with Parisian style butter on green beans and a potato cake. It was well presented, stacked a good six inches high with the same jus that accompanied my steak, minus the pepper, drizzled around the side. The report on it was generally positive, although the potato was a little under done.

To counter balance the average food were some excellent wines, chosen by the Sommelier, Toby Graham, to fill out the wine list. For the main I chose an ‘04 Wantirna Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (List Price $112, Store Price $60-$70). The wine itself is quite nice and is more complex than you’d expect from just a Cab Sav Merlot, and that’s probably because there’s actually some Cab Franc and Petit Verdot in the bottle too. Overall, the wine has a nice blackcurrant to mulberry flavour with the classic merlot dusty finish. If you’re looking for it in a store, Wantirna Estate is the one with the Michael Leunig cartoons on the labels.

When it came to dessert, I wanted a bottle of something else to go with our Lenôtre Frambrosier’s so I asked Toby for a recommendation. There was the obligatory Noble One, but I thought that the overpowering honey in it would kill the delicate raspberries and cream in the dessert, Toby agreed and recommended the 2005 Grande Maison Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Muscadelle from Monbazillac in France (List Price, $51/375mL, Store price $30/375mL). I found that it had soft hay-like flavour, not grassy at all, it was drier and warm but with a definite floral sweetness that worked well with the dessert.

The Sofitel, being owned by the French Accor group have enlisted, under license, Lenôtre to provide desserts and cakes for its hotels, they look stunning, particularly the signature Frambrosier, which looks like a giant pink lamington topped with fresh raspberries and a raspberry sugar swirl. Within the gayest dessert of all time are layers of sponge cake with a raspberry centre, covered in cream and then a pink coconut (I think it’s pink coconut anyway). Given that it’s a sponge cake with cream and a raspberry centre I was expecting something more like a molleaux which is an individual cake that has a liquid sauce centre that spills out across the plate when you cut into it. The frambrosier certainly had the potential for it. I’m still not sure if what we got was meant to be a molleaux because they were half frozen. The bottom and centre were practically solid with the top had just started to soften. I don’t know if you’ve ever frozen cream but it doesn’t work – large ice crystals form and when you cut into it, it splinters apart. At the very least, these desserts should be served only slightly chilled to show their true potential, and meet their hype.

The highlight of Thyme² has got to be Toby Graham’s wine list and the quite knowledgeable service he provides. Toby has been studying and working with wines for over 15 years and answered all of our questions quickly and with confidence, not only suggesting wines but explaining why he’d suggested them which for mark-ups like these is great because he can help narrow down the choices for you – sure all sommeliers should do this, it’s their job, but Toby does it well.
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Kangarila Road Zinfandel

Zinfandel is a less common varietal of wine in Australia having originated in the USA where most of our wines have an origin in Europe. To me it has the flavours of a good Shiraz with black-current and some spicy notes like cinnamon and clove but the wine can still maintain a lightness like a Pinot because of the grape's high sugar content. That's probably got something to do with this particular Zinfandel having come from the McLaren Vale which is typically hot and dry compared to the cooler and wetter conditions in the Barossa Valley. A Zinfandel from the Barossa (not that I think they produce Zinfandel there because it isn't it's native conditions) would have an even lighter flavour, not as much black-current and more raspberry. It's in the $30-$50 range, so it's a little pricey but for those of you who don't like the big alcohol punch of a Shiraz but want the black-current flavours you really should give it a try. I had it with a bbq t-bone and a blue cheese sauce so it can stand up to some strong flavours in your food and would go equally as well with roasted red meat or almost any meat that's been grilled. Keep in mind however, even though it doesn't have a heavy flavour, it's still got a heavy alcohol content. This one was 15%

Kangarila Road Zinfandel

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