Moore & Moore and more
Mad Monk
Mad Monk serves more than just steak and beer though, pizza (which I haven’t tried yet) and a unique tapas styled menu featuring small dishes from around the world that I shared with two friends from work. We had planned to order everything on the tapas menu and work our way through it but luckily they were out of some of the items since we struggled to finish the generous and well priced servings. My favorite was definitely the sticky pork belly and scallops, but you know what I’m like with scallops.
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No salmon for you! @ Varga Bar
I ended up with a sandwich. Luckily it was tasty but given it was a bacon sandwich ($10), a little light on the bacon.
Bacon, Avocado, Tomato and Lettuce on
Sourdough @ Varga Bar
White Degustation and the Hilton Auckland
I hadn’t had breakfast that morning so once I settled into the room, opened all the draws and flicked all the light switches I had a look at the room service menu. There was all of the standard fare you get at the Hilton plus the specialised items from the hotels restaurant. I ordered the Nasi Goreng, just a light meal. Presented well, the rice moulded in a bowl and turned out into the plate with a fried egg across the top, tomato and cucumber slices fanned around the edge and individual bowls of chili paste, soy and dried fish so they could all be added to taste, a single large prawn cracker and three small chicken satay skewers to the side. Flavour wise it was more subtle than I’m used to, all of the flavours were balanced so it was a clearly deliberate choice and it certainly wasn’t bland per se but I could see a lot of people thinking it was.
The second night I stayed I went to White, the hotel’s restaurant with Italian chef Cristiano De Martin running the show. You can see his European training and years of dedicated practice in the way every dish was executed, starting with the produce then preparation and cooking then finally the presentation. De Martin’s dedication to his food extends to joint venture called Homegrown with NZ primary producers to source the best ingredients. I can’t see any losers here, especially as I get presented with my first course.
Starting off with Heart of the Desert saffron infused carrot soup with parsley foam it’s not surprising De Martin highlights one of his Homegrown partners in Heart of the Desert saffron. Who knew that NZ can grow it given 90% of the world production is from Iran? The soup itself was good blending the more complex earthier kiwi saffron standing up against fresh sweet carrots. The parsley foam was wispy and delicate adding a level of texture and evening out the parsley flavour so that no mouthful could ever be overpowed with a herb than can taste like grass if you get a mouthful of it unexpectedly.
Contrasting the soup’s delicate flavour profile is the Northland kingfish carpaccio, spiced shallots with citrus and sesame dressing and mini coriander leaves hitting you with an incredible burst starting out with the lime that is made palatable with the shallots, coriander and sesame on the finish. Without any one of these the dish wouldn’t balance but here all of the flavours are inline leaving you with the amazingly fresh kingfish carpaccio. The mouthfeel of the slightly oily kingfish sliced paper thin and served raw as it melds itself with the rest of the flavours creating one of those moments you sit up and pay attention to what you’re eating.
I love duck and I eat it quite often but until now I hadn’t actually had the chance to make or try tea smoked duck. I made tea smoked snapper a few weeks ago as a trial before I give it ago on duck. Now I’ve got a gold standard to aim for. A salad of tea smoked duck resting on crisp filo pastry, pistachio, celery and grapes with a blueberry and riesling verjus dressing was a familiar yet different taste. Smoking the duck adds a soft undertone to each bite that while you can tell it is there, at no point does it distract you from the duck itself or any other ingredient. Pistachio as a nut has an odd flavour that wouldn’t have worked if the duck wasn’t smoked. A lesser chef would have either used hazelnut that I think would have enhanced the smoke and overpowered the rest of the salad or blanched almods simply for texture. The filo pastry was disappointing, it seemed more like a layer of cardboard where I was expecting the salad to be perched on top of individual layers of delicate filo. Did you notice something missing in the picture? When I was served the dish I thought it was odd but there isn’t a black/purple drizzle across the top. I’m not sure how they did it, but blueberry skin wasn’t in the ingredient list for the dressing so it’s is perfectly clear. The two black half circles are grapes.
Scallops are tender pillows of shellfish that have a sweeter meat than crayfish. Their intense flavour, despite that they’re physically delicate, means they can carry other strong flavours and De Martin picked almost a surf and turf with Spirits Bay scallops seared with crispy pancetta, apple pureé and a snow pea salad with cabernet sauvignon vinegar glaze. Even before the plate lands you can smell the pancetta and the bacon instinct kicks in and your nose is in the air trying to breathe it all in. The pancetta releases so much of it’s flavour as it’s friend in the pan next to the scallops that they seem to soak it up like a sponge. The drizzle of glaze on the plate was incredibly intense and perfect for cutting through the pancetta’s fat so you can reclaim the scallop’s individuality.
The Assistant Manager (who did an amazing job all night) disagreed with the chef on his choice of wine for a number of dishes and I either saw her point or agreed completely. This time I only saw her point. She gave me some of the listed wine, a Cloudy Bay ‘08 Sauvignon Blanc, and the wine she thought was best, a Brancott ‘07 Sauvignon Blanc, both from the Malborough. I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t have said either were a perfect match but then I can’t say what would have been either. The Cloudy Bay was good at balancing the glaze and pancetta but destroyed the apple and scallop where as the Brancott was obliterated by the fat. Given the focus of this dish was scallops, not pancetta I’d have erred on the side of caution and taken the Bancott as the manager suggested.
A Kaffir Lime sorbet broke the meal. It tasted like the only possible way you could have that much lime flavour in a that glass was if someone froze and blended the lime itself. It had such a fresh taste to it, probably enhanced by the fact it was frozen, but it could have easily been the smell of a fresh picked lime. My guess is it was probably oil from the skin being sprayed in to and incorporated with the mix.
The headline of the show for an international hotel in NZ was of course the Hawke’s Bay lamb loin roasted with garden herbs, parsnip créme and crisps, manuka smoked olives, lemon and Te Arai Extra Virgin emulsion. The lamb was cooked a touch longer than I’d have liked but within tolerances for medium-rare so it did benefit from the olive oil and parsnip mash for moistness. That’s not to say it wasn’t full of flavour; I’d say the kiwi’s have made a good go at it. Infact given the better farming and grazing weather in NZ for the past few years, their lambs might just be better than the Australians. For now. Picking up some of the smoked olives with the lamb made for a nice way to extend the otherwise limited range of flavours on the plate, the parsnips and olive oil seemed to take on a new life. Half way through I’d ran out and wished there were more, olives, not parsnip.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get the names of the two cheeses served on this course but they seemed along the lines of a mature cheddar and a firmer white mould cheese along the lines of a costello perhaps? As I was dining alone, I think I received a hastily cut down portion. There was just simply not enough cheese to try all of the condiments with at least one cheese, there weren’t even enough wafers. Still, it was nice for a course designed to transition your palette from red meat to dessert.
Of course, at the end of any meal you can’t go past dessert and what a dessert. The menu called for a chef’s selection and I don’t think there was anything left he hadn’t selected. When this course came up I was offered an extra glass of wine because there had been ‘an issue’ in the kitchen and I would have to wait an extra 10 minutes or so. What I think it was is that they couldn’t figure out how to present a dessert platter that’s designed for two people to a single person when most of the items are either slivers anyway or single units. Half a scoop of ice-cream anyone? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that if there were two people that I would have been disappointed with the portion size, there are four separate desserts for heavens sake but to cut them down further would have been unsightly. Which is why I got a dessert platter for two! It goes without saying that every single one of these desserts were delicious and flavour packed. No surprises in the taste, they were almost concentrated in their own flavour. So clockwise from the back we’ve got an apple galette topped with vanilla ice cream, vanilla panna-cotta with raspberry compote, lemon cheesecake, dark chocolate hazelnut torte with a scoop of hazelnut ice-cream.
I ordered an espresso to go with the petit four which was basically a sphere of pear and cream that finished the meal as I sat and waited for it to move itself below my centre of gravity and chatted to an Australian couple that also had the degustation whom asked me how I enjoyed it and gave them my Red Whisk business card so they can come and look at the pictures. My sincerest apologies have to go to them for the delay in posting this article.
All in all, I really quite enjoyed visiting (and not as their guest, this was fully funded by The Red Whisk). Next time I visit Auckland I’m going to have to stay at the Hilton again. As far as international standards go the Hilton here is above the average. Sure there are some things that could be done better but they’re probably not going to be picked up or worried over by your average consumer. As for the restaurant, the service of the assistant manager scored herself a very generous tip for her friendly yet professional service keeping the person dining alone who didn’t bring a book to read company, her generosity in pouring wine and offering not only and alternative to the listed wines, but both!
Hilton Auckland and White Restaurant
Princess Wharf. 147 Quay Street
Auckland. 1010
NEW ZEALAND
Mills Reef Winery
Mills Reef is hardly a stable but if the attitude of the staff on the restaurant is anything to go by then jebus himself was born here and it was our privilege to be on sacred ground but more on that in a minute. Going along Moffat Road and seeing the grounds appear before you is impressive with manicured lawns and rows of trees all leading up to the main building and it's own formal gardens but this is a working site. All of the processing, bottling and distribution happen here even though all of the grapes are bought and shipped from the not so far away Hawks Bay.
As you walk up from the car park the first door on the left is the tasting room so we went there first. As a tip for those visiting a winery with it's own restaurant, here's a good place to try a sip of a few things before you try and match them to your lunch and give you a chance to mull over which bottles you pick up.
Mills Reef Winery, 143 Moffat Road,
Bethlahem New Zealand
In the tasting room we met Ken, the cellar manager who ever so
patiently walked my family through not only their range but the
tasting process (lightest and brightest to heaviest and darkest).
From what I could tell all of the prices for the wine were quite
reasonable where as the souvenirs had souvenir prices.
After a few uhms and ahs we took a price list and headed for the
empty restaurant. There was a choice of the outdoor terrace or
inside a dining/function room. The enormous main dining room was
having the air-conditioning replaced before summer. Not to worry
because ir was spring after all and we chose a table on the terrace
in the shade. Just like everyone else did but being outside the
noise wasn't an issue and the tables were well spaced anyway. After
the stop-off in the tasting room I picked my entrée and main based
on their recommended wines and everyone else chose the recommended
glass. I wanted to see how they stood up to good quality food and
thankfully what came out of the kitchen was great. Luckily I was
really only interest in their red wine because the restaurants fish
order hadn't arrived to meet the demand of their predominantly fish
based menu.
Going around the table my mother had their seafood trio and the
Pinot Gris, a slight alteration due to the lack of fish she had a
king prawn, scallops and a piece of salmon; my brother had the
oysters and my aunt had the bread and dukka which surprised me. For
such a simple sounding entrée the chef added a bit of flair
throwing in a couple of different types of cibatta and more than
just a simple dukka, there was some great avocado oil, tapenade and
homemade pesto too. I had the chicken liver paté with truffles
crostini and the Cab Melot, or at least that's what I ordered.
Instead I got garlic crostini that worked very well and I wouldn't
have had any complaints if only I hadn't ordered truffles. That and
if I didn't have to wait 10 minutes and actually need to get up
from by seat, walk through a construction site and find the wait
staff and ask them for our wine. Even though there were a few
people in the restaurant by that stage I find it hard to believe a
winery restaurant forgot to bring the wine.
Seafood Trio - Prawn, Salmon and
Scallop
Cibatta with Dukka, Avocado Oil, Tapenade and Pesto
Chicken Liver and Cognac Paté and Fig Jam with Garlic
Crostini
Main course ran smoother, Mum had the strawberry and asparagus
salad with Kaimai Brie and a glass of
the Sav Blanc which was tasty and exploration in vegetarian texture
more than flavour, my brother had two giant lamb shanks that were
cut above the knee and were so tender the meat would have literally
fallen off the bone if he'd picked it up washed down with the Cab
Sav. The meat was good quality lamb but seemed a little bland on
it's own and relied in the jus to carry it. Mind you I only picked
at his leftovers, so the most of the meat could have been fine. My
Aunts Cajun chicken Caesar salad was generous, well seasoned. I had
the lamb fillet that was cooked to a perfect pink with a blue
cheese and pear salad with a walderberry jus, much like my
favourite duck salad. The lamb itself seemed under seasoned but
balanced out with some cracked pepper and the jus. The Merlot
Malbec was a perfect match.
Asparagus, Strawberry, Avocado and
Kaimai Brie
Warm Lamb Fillet, Watercress and Baby Spinach Salad with Pear,
Cashew, Kikorangi Blue and Walderberry Syrup
Lamb Shanks Braised with Wholegrain Mustard on Green Pea and Potato
Mash
Dessert. Only mother and I had dessert, her with the mandarin and
cinnamon spring rolls which looked delicious and I had the 'ode to
the lemon' which was a set of three lemon desserts starting with a
lemon curd in a bitter chocolate case the size of a patty-pan, a
lemon cremé brûlée in an espresso cup and a scoop of lemon ice
cream in a parfait glass. All of which matched brilliantly in their
own way to the riesling ice wine. If only it was delivered with the
course. As the waitress walked off I called out "um, and our wine?"
She flicked her nose up and walked off in acknowledgement. I
waited. I waited. Again I got up and asked for my wine yet again.
The excuse was they were waiting for the others coffee to be made
before they bought out all of the drinks. Pity my ice cream had
melted and my crem brule was cold by the time it arrived.
The location, food and wine at Mills Reef are nothing to complain
about but the attitude and service of the restaurant wait staff
really left more a lot to be desired.
Nectarine and Honey Spring Rolls
rolled in Cinnamon Sugar served with Blueberry Syrup and Vanilla
Ice Cream
Burnt Lemon Curd, Lemon Crem Brule and Lemon Ice
Cream
The Daily Grind @ The Peppermill Cafe
Peppermill Café, Milsons
Point
At a recent contract I went out myself and failed miserably picking
the Kirribilli Village Café and Restaurant. I tried their steak
sandwich and it was just awful, chewy, tasteless and very
overpriced. $25 off for the sandwich and a coffee. That’s when I
asked. The team I was working with and I went around the corner to
The Peppermill Café in Milsons
Point, their coffee is a little to be desired considering it’s
Campos Coffee, but it
almost always seemed burnt but the service and food was always
pretty good.
The first day I went I was recommended their regular special, a
chicken and leek pie. Not what I expected in the presentation
department but it was tasty. An individual baking dish with mashed
potato on the bottom, a regular chicken and leek filling and a
square of golden puff pastry balanced across the top. Almost every
day since then I went to Peppermill for either lunch or breakfast,
often for both. When I had breakfast, brunch, or afternoon tea, I’d
pick up a smoked salmon, ricotta and avocado croissant, the
combination of the soft buttery pastry and the oily smokiness of
the salmon was a winner.
Smoked Salmon Croissant @ Peppermill
Café, Milsons Point
They serve an all day breakfast here,
and the majority of the menu was based around breakfast but almost
as often as I’d see someone have a burger I saw someone else have
either the pancakes or french toast, both served with either bacon
and maple syrup or a mixed berry compote. Delicious stuff and well
worth a try if you want a bit of extra energy before hitting either
the Kirribilli or North Sydney Markets one weekend (I worked
weekends too). The beef burger is nice, standard fare, but the
chicken burger was the winner, chicken, bacon, avocado. Damn
tasty.
It’s also licensed and they won’t pass judgement if you have a
Bloody Mary on a Monday!
Chicken & Bacon Burger @
Peppermill Café, Milsons Point
The Peppermill Café
30 Glenn Street, Milsons Point (map)
Monday to Friday 7am to 6pm
Saturday and Sunday 8am - 4pm
T: (02) 9954 1444
F: (02) 9954 1444
www.thepeppermillcafe.com.au
Good Wok - Good Soup
Good Wok - 587 King Street
Newtown
I haven’t spotted anything out of the ordinary or a speciality on
the menu, it’s all the usual stuff you’d expect, mongolian beef,
cashew chicken and all that but it was the bbq wonton noodle soup
that I’ve gone back for. It definitley isn’t the
best I’ve ever had but Good Wok’s version is the type of soup
you go to when you’re stomach is compleltey empty and you need to
fill it with carbs, hot broth, meat and vegetables.
The soup has a good chicken and vegetable stock, fresh bbq pork and
some very fresh vegetables including perfectly cooked brocolli.
Even I struggle to get mine tender-crisp but this was pretty much
perfect not to mention generously served.
Good Wok - BBQ Pork Wonton Noodle
Soup
Good Wok Chinese Food
Ph: 02 9565 2175
587 King Street
Newtown
They don’t do delivery but do take phone orders, it’s cash only
too.
Varga Bar - Swedish Wolf in Espresso Coloured Clothes
Varga Bar Espresso. Corner of Wilson
St and Erskineville Road, Newtown
I went there today with a friend of
mine that I have’t seen in years because we’re both too goddamn
lazy to meet up but we managed today. He’s very punctual though,
when he said he was running approximatley 12 minutes late, he was
exactly 12 minutes late. Good work. At least it gave me extra time
to get some descent location shots of the outside and plenty of
time to check out the hot blond barrista and the clientelé.
The thing that surprised me here, wasn’t so much the fact that what
we were served was fantastic, but it was creative. I’ve tried a lot
of cafés in Newtown but this was the first time I’ve seen a
honeycomb and belgian chocolate affogato (espresso with a scoop of
ice cream) on a menu and the cakes we had were delicious and well
presented. I had the banana cake, unfortunately a little dry in
places but delicious none the less. The other cake, the chocolate
and raspberry mousse cake was denser than you’d expect, more cakey
than moussey, but the affogato. Smooth, sweet, delicious with goopy
melted chocolate in the bottom of the glass topped with a sprinkle
of violet crumble.
Honeycomb and Chocolate Affogato and
Chocolate and Raspberry Mousse Cake
I’m going to have to come back and try out the food menu.
That's not strawberry blond! He's a ginger!
About to be eaten ginger
The wonderful people at Gingerbread Folk make organic,
free range gingerbread people, house kits, flowers, christmas
decorations and custom made gingers for special and corporate
events. Keeping the environmentaly concious theme they even package
their individual bloodnuts in compostable plastic!
As they’re made of all natural ingredients there aren’t any
preservatives in them so don’t expect to keep these for months on
end like you can with commercial ginger bread (next christmas,
check the expiary date on the gingerbread in supermarkets, it can
keep for years, that can’t be good). Lucky they’re tasty and beg to
be gobbled.
The box! The box!
The first thing you notice once you’ve moved the box into the kitchen isn’t the volume of food, the convenience or even the value for money, it’s the sweet smell that almost overwhelmes you as you break the seal on the box and lift the lid. It really is amazing stuff in there. As you can see below you can get everything from a whole rockmelon, an egg plant, green beans, sugar snap peas and a bag of baby spinach, salad leaves and a whole lot more.

Box Fresh Delivery
I’ve done a comparison and even if you
disreguard the fact that this is restaurant quality food, you can’t
get this amount of food for less than the $49 expecially if you
want it delivered. Coles Online for example was $95! On top of the
fruit and veg, you can also pick up a good selection of cheese,
jams and even a meat tray from Hudson meat. Give them a go.
This weeks box had all sorts of fun stuff:
Vine ripened tomatoes
Broccoli
Green Beans
Potatoes
Red Onion
Brown Onion
Avocado
Ginger
Green Chilli
Garlic
Corriander
Mint
Parsley
Carrots
Field Mushrooms
Egg Plant
Sugar Snap Peas
Baby Spinach
Mixed Salad Leaves
Red Capsicum
Kiwi Fruit
Carela Pears
Fuji Apples
Oranges
Bananas
Rockmelon
Lemon
The Illegitimate Dumpling King
So after meeting some wonderful company at the station we began walking up the eastern side of King Street until we started to realise that we were almost of restaurants. Just at that point we were standing next to The Dumpling King (194 King Street, Newtown). Declaring my love for dumplings we headed in, sat down and went over the menu looking for some rare and tasty dumplings I'd never heard of before. Bitterly disappointed given the name of the place there were only four dumplings! Northern Meat Style, steamed or pan fried, and Vegetable Dumpling, steamed or pan fried. How can you call yourself the Dumpling King if you only have two types of dumplings?! We decided to order the shallot pancake and the meat bun and of course, both types of dumplings - steamed.
You
won’t find many dumplings at The Dumpling King (194 King Street,
Newtown)
Twenty
minutes later the pancake (that I don't think had even met a
shallot) arrived along with the pan fried flavourless northern meat
buns. Chewing through those and washing them down with some weak
green tea (from a bag) we sat and chatted. Pleasant and engaging
conversation, thankfully, which made the next forty-five minutes
waiting for our dumplings bearable.
Eventually, after physically getting up and asking the wait-staff
that had ignored us since we ordered where the rest of our meal
was, two steamer baskets turned up with an excuse that the Dumpling
King had run out of dumplings and he had to make them fresh! Two
things are wrong with that, one - the DUMPLING KING ran out of
dumplings; and two - if he did have some on hand they wouldn't have
been fresh! I know I'm probably arguing for two different sides
here, do I want fresh dumplings or do I want quick service but
that's not the point. We weren't the only table that didn't get
their meals, I noticed two or three other tables having to stop the
wait-staff and ask where their food was.
At the end of the night, I have to admit the dumplings were
actually quite nice, but the experience was terrible with poor
service and a promise of a plethora of dumplings that just don't
exist. The rest of the menu looked quite uninspired and with the
variety available on King Street I'm not going to be in any hurry
to visit the illegitimate Dumpling King again. I'd rather go to
Happy Chef.
White-trash white-bait
I was expecting something a lot more like a pancake with little tiny fish heads sticking out perfectly crispy waiting for me to cunch. What I got was little brown deep fried sea-poops on a soggy salad. Although, the beetroot relish on top was just delicious. There are plenty of better whitebait fritter recipes out there.
What’s going on at The Union? This place used to be known for it’s top class pub food. The last time I ordered fish here it was obviously a frozen fish fillet because it was still hard and cold in the centre. Their regular menu is rock solid - I guess it must just be the specials.

Little brown sea-poos with beetroot
relish
Food, 6/10 - Good but
the standards are slipping
Service, 8/10 - Can’t complain here
Coffee, 0/10 - There is an espresso machine, but
this is a pub. Have a beer
Value, 6.5/10 - Pricey for pub food but better
than the competition
Location, 9/10 - Full of good intentioned
locals
A Splash in the Mediterranean
Splash @ 226 King Street,
Newtown
Now while the decor of the restaurant
is a fairly dark but modern I can’t help but feel that this is a
second home to those who work here with little touches making it
feel more like someone’s living room - the framed boxing
memorabilia coming from the eldest son and the bright sea-life
painting coming from his mother insisting “these will look lovely.”
The feel of being in someone else’s house is reinforced with the
clumsy but well intentioned younger sister waitress, the always
looking busy but not really older sister waitress, then there’s the
eldest muscle bound pony-tailed brother who sits intimidatingly
behind the bar only to rush off outside or to the kitchen every
time his mobile phone beeps or rings. I always got the feeling that
I was imposing being there and even more so when I asked for
another drink.
At least the food was good quality with more than a substantial
serving, three people or two hungrier people than us could have
finished it with a bit more effort, we struggled to get through
half of the a pile of chips, bbq baby octopus, pickled octopus,
lightly battered and fried prawns, cold cooked prawns, fresh
oysters, scallop mornay, smoked salmon and the whole crab. We
didn’t even touch the salad.
Hot and Cold Seafood Plater for Two @
Splash Newtown
Food, 6.5/10 - Everything was there, but it wasn’t
original by any means
Service, 5/10 - I felt like I was imposing on them
being there, it seemed everyone had better things to do
Value, 7/10 - For what we got, the $100 bill was
fair for quality seafood in Sydney
Location, 9/10 - Heart of King Street
La Cachette
After I got back from the meeting I headed off to the Victoria’s Basement outlet in Alexandria with a pit-stop at a little café I’d spotted once before that seemed a little odd out on it’s own on an otherwise desolate strip of Mitchell Road.
I took a gamble and went for the salmon egg benedict roll, an unusual presentation in itself but buoyed by the fact that it looked delicious. Tasted good too! The only thing I was annoyed with was the poached egg was hard, not runny at all - but then, given that it was obviously meant to be eaten by people with a well defined palate with out any time it made sense. I won’t mind stopping in again one weekend and picking up a quiche or something else to see how that goes. Stay tuned.

Salmon Egg Benedict Roll @ La Cachette Alexandria
With the exception of the coffee (burnt and bitter, what a surprise
there), I was pleasantly surprised. Stop by if you’re going past
the area and peckish.
Food, 7/10 - Better than you’d expect
for what looks like a workman’s lunch-bar
Service, 4/10 - The girl was training and seemed
lost
Coffee, 0/10 - It was undrinkable
Value, 6.5/10 - $10.50 for a brea-roll and a
coffee, but what a bread-roll
Location, 4/10 - In the middle of
nowhere
The Duke was Shot in the Back
Affie, as he was known by his family was so called because he was affable, easy to talk to and that sense really has been instilled at The Duke. Given it’s prime location meters away from the Enmore Theatre everyone comes here for a beer and a meal before a show ( The Presets drew me here Monday night). If you’re planning on eating get here early because the place fills up fast. On freezing cold nights like last night, the roaring open fire helps too!
I’ve been here a few times, and the place isn’t cheap but the food is good and usually pretty high quality with some very generous servings. I had the mixed grill this time around, sausages, minute steak, bacon and lamb cutlets on chips with sauce of your choice, pepper, mushroom etc, all for the princley sum (get it?) of $17.50. It is just pub food here, steaks, burgers and the good old chicken parma that a friend had, looking equally as delicious and priced.

Mixed Grill @ The Duke, Enmore
Food, 7/10 - Better
than most pubs and everything you’d expect on a classic pub menu
board
Service, 8/10 - For a pub, you can’t complain -
they were happy and friendly
Coffee, 10/10 - Because it was made with hopps and
barley and served by the pint
Value, 7/10 - Tough one, but for the location and
the generous servings it gets a couple extra points
Location, 9/10 - If you’re going to the Enmore
it’s ideal
The Duke of Edinburgh
148 Enmore Road, Enmore NSW 2042
P: 02 9519 1935
F: 02 9557 1381
W:
http://www.duke-hotel.com/
Bills Chicken Club Sammich

Bills - 359 Crown Street, Surry
Hills
Bills second restaurant in Surry Hills
opened 12 years ago and has been going strong ever since, full to
the brim from opening till the end of brunch, easing off through
the day and picking up again for dinner. It’s a great place to come
despite it’s incredibly short menu, one of the shortest in Sydney
with usually ony a dozen items to choose from, most of which are
staples that are always there such as the sweetcorn fritters with
guacamole and the chicken club sandwich, which is what I had today.
Now this isn’t your typical three tier sandwich, it’s a chibata
roll with roast tomato, baked chicken thigh, roquett and a light
spread of dijonaise. It is delicious, but for $17.50 you’d want it
to be. Don’t count on the coffee, it’s always just a little
burnt.

Club Sandwich and Herbed Fries -
Bills, 359 Crown Street, Surry HIlls
If you’re after better coffee and cheaper sweet corn fritters (also
$17.50) try Lemon Twist a little further south on Crown
Street.
Corelli Sure Liked His Waffles

Corelli's Café - 352 King Street,
Newtown
Being
the heart of Newtown it manages to still have that feel of
Bohemia
about
it, which is odd because Arcangelo
Corelli was
Italian not Slavic; nor was he gypsy. In fact he was long dead
before the French even coined the phrase. The point though, is that
Corelli’s has that aire of real Newtown about it with it’s cramped
tables, mismatched paintwork and staff that will get around to
taking your order when they’ve stopped day-dreaming as they watch
the foot traffic.
As for the food, the menu seemed skewed towards breakfast, proven
by dinner there tonight with my pick of the menu being the bangers
and mash (not too bad but simple as it should be). For that
breakfast though John had the generously portioned eggs benedict
with an obviously not
store-bought hollandaise sauce.
You could tell it was made with fresh egg and
lemon.

Eggs Benedict @ Corelli's
Newtown
To
satisfy the need for sugar and fat though I couldn’t turn up the
made-to-order Belgian waffles with strawberry and rhubarb compote,
maple syrup and fresh cream. Good lord it hit the spot — then
stomped around on it for a while. The waffles themselves were light
and fluffy with just enough sugary-caramelised crispiness, balanced
with the sweet and tart compote and the lusciousness of the cream.
I think John’s arse clenched when he tasted some! Are you reading
this John? :P

Waffles with Rhubarb and Strawberry
Compote @ Corelli's Newtown
The ironing is delicious

Missed Train Croissant. Cold,
unmleted cheese. Damn.
Scoozi, la prima colazione?
This little black duck though had to walk for hours around the centre of Adelaide CBD to find somewhere that was open and serving breakfast.

Scoozi - Big Breakfast
Coffee + Martini Glass = Freaking Awesome

On the nights I was there the lounge was mostly quiet, perfect for
a book and a gin and tonic and enjoying the open bar and evening
canapés or the sweeter petit fours of an evening with a hot
chocolate. Some company would have been nice too.

Sofitel Melbourne Club
Lounge
Breakfast is a hybrid buffet and à la
carte, having scrambled eggs, bacon fruit and cereal on the bar and
a slightly changing menu of a 'big breakfast', eggs benedict etc.
I'd highly recommend the ricotta hotcakes.

Pine Nut and Honey Ricotta Hotcakes @
Sofitel Club Lounge, Melbourne
Those of you who know me, and those of you that finish reading this
sentence know that I love coffee. Most of you even know that I like
*ahem* a drink or two. So when I hit the Atrium Bar at the
Sofitel
Melbourne the night I landed I started to relax, To understand
the atmosphere in this bar you need to appreciate the layout of the
Sofitel Melbourne. Even though the reception is based on the lower
floors the hotel itself does not start until the 35th floor,
perched on top of an office tower. This is where you'll find the
Atrium Bar and it's skylight another 15 floors
above.

Atrium Bar @ Sofitel
Melbourne
I went through a couple of drinks,
starting with a fig and scotch martini that was nice except I'm not
the biggest fan of scotch - the figs almost made up for it. I ended
up with heaven in a glass with an espresso martini. Goddamn it was
good, heck, it even had crema thick and frothy enough to hold up
whole beans... It wasn't like any of the other espresso martini's
I've had before, this had a dash of frangelico in it I think.
I think I've found a reason to dust off my own martini
glasses.

Espresso Martini - Sofitel
Melbourne
Batteling Turks seemed an easier way to get my croissant

Macro Café, King Street,
Newtown
Unsurprising for the neighborhood, the
post-hippie generation feminist matriarchal vegan families seem to
be flocking to this place in numbers as large as the uni-students
taking advantage of the free wireless internet. If you can at all
avoid it while queuing to place your order (no table service),
don't stand behind one of the aforementioned feminist vegan
matriarchs placing her order especially if they're heavily
pregnant. Instead of picking something off the menu board that
meets their stringent dietary requirements they seem to instead
rattle off all of their dietary restrictions and the reasons why to
the poor waitress trying to find something they can eat. 10 minutes
later she settled a garden salad with a hard boiled egg. Obviously
she's not a real vegan. I bet she doesn't even pocket-mulch. If I
wasn't afraid of loosing my seat I'd have tried to sneak into the
kitchen and slip some bacon into her food.
As far as what I ate, I settled a simple ham and cheese croissant
and a pot of byron chai. $4.50 for the chai I could understand, but
I was a little concerned at the $9.50 for the croissant! If it
wasn't for the fact that I'd already queued and there weren't many
more options for breakfast in the direction my travels were taking
me I'd have probably left and found something else. WIth a bit of a
surprise I ended up being presented with a substantial croissant
with either emmental or jarlsberg cheese, good quality ham. tomato
and baby spinach. It really was a meal in itself. I did think it
odd that the menu board didn't mention it. Now I understand why it
cost so much.

Croissant from Macro
Café
I tried to make croissants from scratch many moons ago and even
though they tasted okay, they were a right pain in the arse and I
vowed never to make one again. I might give it another go some time
but no. Real hand made croissants can easily take a professional
days to make, mine took four days and another two days to
clean the kitchen! There are plenty of rumors as to the origin of
croissants, including Polish bakers hearing the early morning
tunneling of Turkish soldiers whom alerted the local authorities
and ambushed the Turks. To honor the victory in the battle, the
bakers supposedly made croissants in the shape of the crescent moon
on the Turkish flag. All this in the 700's, nearly a thousand years
before the earliest reference to puff pastry! They are more likely
a French variation of a Viennese pastry. I'd still rather cross an
armed Turkish soldier than cross the feminist vegan to ask her to
hurry up and order.
Ironically, you didn't even have to chew the beef cheek
Eventually I get a menu, eventually the waitress comes back to take my order, eventually I get my drinks, eventually I get my food. Saying that though, if I'd gotten the braised beef cheek ($18.50) that I ordered any faster I might have had to send it back. To a chef that has a large menu full of relatively quick dishes, like the asian inspired duck salad that I almost went for, having a couple of slow food items can really throw you. If you slow cook something and hold it in a perpetual state of almost finished like you have to in a restaurant - heating it and getting it on a plate too fast will cease the meat, make it tough ruining hours worth of braising.

Braised Beef Cheek from Grub &
Tucker, Newtown
If you haven't had beef cheek but like lamb shanks, I'd suggest
giving it a try. Like shanks, cheek is a very well used muscle
group so it's hard and tough and needs long slow cooking to make it
tender and even more than a shank, you get that wonderful
gelatinous mouth feel that just means winter for any self
respecting carnivore. This dish was served on a bed of potato
purée, sliced green beans and broccoli, unfortunately the greens
were a little over done and even with the flourish of fresh parsley
over the top it still lacked both the freshness and the body you'd
expect for a dish that's obviously meant to warm you from the
inside. The beef cheek itself was excellent mind, but the jus
lacked body, a handful of black peppercorns in the jus while it was
simmering would have fixed it.
On the plus side, a walk down King Street on a Saturday night is
really what this neighbourhood is all about. Instead of having to
deal with drunks and drug addicts along Oxford Street, I found
street performers and artists and a happy active crowd of onlookers
enjoying the spectacle. Best of all, I met the group of artists
that put together Oh Really
Magazine, picked up a piece of their artwork (free with a
donation!) and commissioned them to do some work for me. I love
Newotwn.

Oh Really Pig
Intercontinental, Burswood
I had a room-service dinner with my brother and sister-in-law and all of us were blown away with the quality and value. We had two soups, two fillet steaks with prawns and a sirloin with roast veg, all for around $135 and that really is great value.
My sister-in-law had a tom yum soup ($15) that was perfectly balanced hot-sour, not too much oil and with giant prawns resting as a surprise on the bottom of the bowl while I had the wonton noodle soup ($13) that was amazing; the broth was clear, golden and delicately flavoured and the wontons were the best I’ve ever had. The wonton skins were perfectly white, delicately thin and a perfect mouthful of prawn and I think scallop meat. When I saw it presented I was a little disappointed that there weren’t any egg noodles in the bottom and no seafood free-floating on top but once I tasted it all of that was forgiven. I can tell that I’ll be trying all winter to re-create this soup.

Wonton Noodle Soup, Intercontinental
Burswood
As for the main courses my
sister-in-law and I both chose the fillet steak with prawns and
wedges and my brother had the sirloin with roasted vegetables (all
around $35). All of us, as with the soups were extremely impressed.
The steaks were generous, all over 500g and the sirloin I’d suggest
was pushing 750g and even with the ride up from the kitchen to our
room they were perfectly cooked just how we’d ordered them and all
butter soft.

Sirloin and Roast Vegetables,
Intercontinental Burswood
The only thing I missed from the meal,
not that we’d ordered it, was a bottle of water on the table; for
an order this size it would have been a nice touch but I won’t
fault them for not providing one. The one litre bottle of Evian in
the mini-bar was $8.
The next morning I ordered the “Burswood Breakfast” from room
service as the buffet breakfast wasn’t included in my rate. It was
$35 and again I couldn’t find fault with it. My family had
breakfast at the buffet and the report was they would have been
more than happy with just what I’d received. A choice of eggs with
a mountain of bacon, sausages and tomato, fruit platter, toast,
several spreads a croissant and a Danish with juice and tea or
coffee. Each morning I had it I could only get through half. If
you’re a light eater, you could possibly split this with someone
else if you ordered an extra pastry and juice. Some how, the
poached eggs on my first morning were delivered perfectly cooked
with soft runny yolks and the scrambled eggs on the second day were
tender, rich and creamy while the bacon was a good mix of soft and
crispy.

Burswood Breakfast, Intercontinental,
Burswood
Next tim I head to Perth I’m going to have to stay again, hopefully with a little more forward planning I’ll be able to book a club room and check out their lounge.
Little Creatures, little food and a little class
The brewery is housed inside one of the two boat sheds that make up their premises, the other houses the bar and restaurant with a giant glass wall separating the two so you can watch the brewers occasionally scuttle around checking valves and whatnot. It’s not a fascinating show if you ever even get to see someone, large modern brewery, even the smaller ones like Little Creatures are generally set-and-forget with only some monitoring of the brewing and fermenting. I was hoping for an ommpaloompa, but I guess they’re probably locked in cages to protect the public.

Little Creatures,
Fremantle
It was a beautiful sunny day so we went
through a couple of false starts to try and secure an outside
table, having much more success than most. The back area is large
and set to have the feel of your mate’s back yard, complete with
bocce pit taking up some valuable real
estate. Full credit has to go to management for not trying to
squeeze in an extra 100 people and ruining a great
atmosphere.
Inside are two levels of seating that seem to be able to fit
hundreds of people with the ground level split with a large bar at
the front and the open planned kitchen at the back, including the
wood fired pizza oven that probably didn’t help to cool the inside
of the warmer than outside shed. It was cooler outside in the
sun.
We didn’t want a huge meal, just something to tide us over until
dinner so we just ordered a plate of prawn skewers (a little over
cooked) and a spicy sausage pizza that left a satisfying lip tingle
for 15 minutes after you’d eaten it. For a wood fired pizza, I was
a little disappointed but I still went back for another slice. I am
glad they showed restraint in the toppings department and didn’t
overload any of the pizzas on the menu.

Prawn Skewers @ Little Creatures,
Fremantle

Spicy Sausage Pizza @ Little
Creatures, Fremantle
We only had the pale ale to drink here
and it was as nice as ever, and one of the better pale ales around.
I saw the cider on the menu when we first sat down inside but
completely forgot about it by the time we’d moved seats twice to
try and get outside.
It was really nice sitting outside watching the well-behaved
toddlers run around, a group of friends play a round of bocce and
others clamber over the small stage that’s occasionally used for
live bands so I’m glad we did shuffle around to get out there. The
wait-staff were friendly and mostly professional. The best evidence
of this was how the waiter and subsequently management dealt with a
woman we’d pointed out to them who probably chose the wrong seat
and should have waited to get an outside seat too…

Dignity. She Needs It
QF481 - Melbourne to Perth and QF568 - Perth to Sydney
On the flight to Melbourne I had a steak sandwich that had rock hard bread and piping hot steak and what were meant to be fried onions and rocket. Simply awful. The flight to Perth was great, I sat next to a really great woman named Michelle and we chatted the whole flight over. Again the food was quite awful, I had a barramundi with an unidentifiable brown mush spread across the top of it. I took pictures of both of these but they really aren't worth publishing. The bonus was the small tub of Maggie Beer's Passionfruit Ice Cream and dessert wine (Noble One I think). Damn it was nice. Almost as good as the leg room on the upper deck of a 747-300. I stretched out and couldn't touch the seat in-front of me with my feet.

Maggie Beer's Passionfruit Ice
Cream
The flight home was a long red-eye on the lower deck with
considerably less leg room. The food was better but not by much.
The cabin lights were ambient, so the picture is sort of funky.
James Morrison was sitting a few
rows in-front of me.

Business Class Supper on Qantas Under
Ambient Light
Newtown Cafe

Café Newtown, Newtown
As for the coffee and food though, it was great. The coffee was a
little off but I think that was just the blend, it was a bit too
dark for my liking but I still drank it and enjoyed it. Mel had the
Eggs Benedict with a side order of baked beans that was so big she
struggled to finish it which is great considering most eggs
benedict is just an english muffin and not much else. The big
breakfast I ordered was big and it had everything you'd want,
except baked beans but I didn't miss them; I only got through two
thirds of mine. With the very generous serves and low costs (my big
breakfast just crossed over the $15 mark) it's great value.

Eggs Benedict @ Café Newtown

Big Breakfast @ Café Newtown
Food, 9/10 - Very
generous serves of well cooked food
Coffee, 6/10 - Darker roast than I'd have liked
but still good
Service, 7/10 - We didn't have a problem with it
but other tables struggled to get their food
Value, 8/10 - Pretty darn good for what you
get
Location, 7/10 - Very convenient location across
from Newtown Station
Manly Grill - One of the best cheeseburgers in Sydney

The thing that, as always, makes it for me is the
demeanor of the staff, if it's not service with a smile, it's
not service. Sure, may be it had more to do with the beautiful day
or the incredible shirtless scenery walking past every 3 seconds
(which in all honesty is why I went to Manly instead of Newtown)
than it did with me but who cares, it makes a difference. These
people smiled and they genuinely seemed happy to take my order.
Which brings us to the menu. Manly grill prides it self on the two
things that any restaurant in this sort of location should, it's
seafood and it's beef. While it was the perfect day for seafood
such as their enormous $120 seafood platter which is well worth the
money from what I could see around me. It would serve 2 Americans,
or 4 normal people. I opted for a plain and simple cheeseburger,
served with shoestring fries and homemade coleslaw.
What I got though was far from a standard cheeseburger, it was
simple, just the basics, but that's what you want from a
cheeseburger. The beef on this thing was fantastic. 200 day grain
fed Black Angus from the
Southern
Highlands. No wonder it tasted good. There was a little surpise
with the buns too, they were char grilled like the burger, the
underside had thick and dark scorched lines which gave a much
appreciated smokey flavour that, I'm guessing, came from a charcoal
grill given the unique taste. As for the sides, the fries were
expertly cooked, pale yet hot and crispy. No sign of McCain, and
the coleslaw was very high quality if a little limp from being
under a heat lamp a fraction too long (or the 30°C sunshine).
This is a good quality restaurant, in a top location, so do expect
to pay for what you get, unlike some other restaurants on this
strip. For my burger, two pepsi max and a bottle of perrier, the
bill came to a fraction over $35.00
Food, 8/10 - I'd have liked a small salad in place
of the large quantity of fries, otherwise, it was
extraordinary
Service, 8.5/10 - Always a smile, always attentive
and efficient
Value, 8/10 - Perhaps a touch over priced for a
cheeseburger
Location, 8.5/10 - Hard to beat in Manly

View Larger Map
Monteith's Radler and Summer Ale
As I mentioned before, the Summer Ale is somewhat of a ginger beer, or a beer with a zesty ginger flavour at any rate. It's fairly different from any other beer I've had and is a great change of pace. Tossing in a slice of lime, lemon or even orange really changes the character of this beer, making it an entirely new flavour, taking away some of the zing of the ginger but keeping it in the background.
As for the Radler, it's like a Corona with a slice of lime added, but with out having to add the lime. Of the two it's the more refreshing and for today's sudden sun and warmth it was perfect for a mid afternoon refresher.

Sofitel Brisbane - Overwhemlingly Under-whelmed

Sofitel Looking from Post Office Square and across Anzac
Square
By no means was Michelle from the front
desk the only pleasant and friendly staff member at the Sofitel.
The staff in the club lounge were excellent, happy and cheerful and
even remembered Miles and I when we came back over a month after
our first visit. Heck, they even smiled while they cleaned up the
plate of scrambled eggs Miles dropped on the floor half asleep one
morning. Speaking of the scrambled eggs, the club lounge breakfasts
are quite nice in their own right; they have all of the basics, but
then, only the basics. Fronting up for breakfast are scrabbled
eggs, mushrooms & bacon in the bain-marie and a good selection
of fruit, yoghurt, and a few cereals and juices and some pastries;
plus champagne on weekends. I’d liked to have seen more but I’m
happy with what they provided. I guess if they did have more no one
with access to the club lounge would fork out the $30 for the
“interactive” breakfast at Thyme² which had everything from eggs
benedict to custom made omelettes.

Club
Lounge Breakfast at the Sofitel Brisbane
Evening drinks and canapés at the club
lounge were much better than the breakfasts, a good selection of
cold items, sushi, an antipasti platter, petit fours and some warm items
ranging from samosas, spring rolls,
curry puffs etc (two different hot items per night, cold items are
the same). The hot food again wasn’t anything extraordinary, all
from a packet, but I guess the fact that there were free wines,
beers and spirits made up for it considering the prices at the
Cuvee Bar downstairs. The view on dusk can't be beat too! The club
lounge is a perfect way to start an evening and I would highly
recommend a visit here.

Lower Level of the Club Lounge

Upper Level of the Club Lounge
As for the $6 million dollar upgrade of
the hotel recently; the lobby,
restaurant and bar as well as the club
lounge were extensively upgraded and a quite nice with clean
lines and lots of natural materials, the rooms though need some
improvement. Sofitel has a concept called “myBed”
which is meant to provide a night sleep that will change your life
forever, apparently. I understand what they’re trying to achieve,
most beds in Australia have hard and overly firm mattresses, but
really what you need is a fairly soft mattress that will conform to
your body and support it, the bed I have at home is like that and
it’s like sleeping in a warm hug. What I got out of the beds here
were sore necks and shoulders and the feeling that all of the
mattresses were worn out, less like a hug and more like a school
camp.
The
corner suite we stayed in on the first visit seemed quite tired
despite the new furnishings while the
club room I stayed in the second time suffered less; though it
could have used thicker walls. The couple in the room next to us
seemed to enjoy their room quit a lot. They enjoyed it at 3:00am,
again at 3:30, 8:30 and 9. They enjoyed it so much that the bottle
of water on MY bedside table fell off.
On the whole I’m disappointed with the Sofitel Brisbane,
particularly because the few times I’ve stayed in their Melbourne and Sydney counterparts I’ve
never had a problem, the beds were huge and comfortable, the staff
were excellent and the food was great and well priced. The Sofitel
Brisbane is definitely the poor cousin to their bigger city family.
When I head north again in a couple of weeks I think I’ll try the
Hilton but I’m
worried that like the Sofitel, it’s going to be suffering from it’s
hurried Expo ’88 construction
and lack of a through refurbishment since. I really am worried that
the Sofitel Brisbane may still well be the best on offer. If the
Hilton doesn’t prove any better Miles is going to have to start
coming down here instead. I’ve got a more comfortable bed, a
quieter room and better food at home.
Thyme² & the Cuvee Bar @ the Sofitel Brisbane
Let’s start with the Cuvee Bar. Every bar everywhere has an unwritten etiquette to follow and it’s always different but not unreasonable and usually boils down to how the manager of the establishment likes his or her staff to act, and that’s it – it’s a guide for the staff, not the patrons. May be it was me, I made the place look untidy or something, but if a customer wants to order a drink from the bar here, they’re promptly dismissed and told to take a seat before an order will be taken. Even if I try making an order I’m still told to take a seat for the waiter to come and take my order. It’s down right rude and even worse; the wait-staff aren’t very knowledgeable with their drinks unlike the bartender I had questions for who told me to go and sit down. Is your apple martini sour or sweet? Could I get a twist of lime instead of lemon? Would you mind not straining the ice from my cocktail? Every question the wait-staff gets that look puppies do when you poke your tongue out at them. Once they scamper off to ask the bartender, they come back and you have a follow-up question. The routine continues until you give up and say “I’ll just have a gin and tonic then” or your presented with a drink you didn’t want and it takes you a few sips to realise that the inept wait-staff have bought you the another table’s drinks; and their bill!
When you finally get your order, the way you want it, it’ll be easier to pay cash than try and charge the drinks to your room. I know it wasn’t this guys first time charging drinks to a room, he’d served me before, but from my seat you could tell he was struggling.
Thyme² is mainly setup for a buffet or as the Sofitelians like to call it, an ‘interactive experience'. I’ve mentioned before that the breakfasts there are great, for $30, serving you everything you’d want in a breakfast. The dinners seem to be the same. Miles and I didn’t have the buffet dinner when we were there, we did see it though. Couples with children, like seagulls taking turns ferrying overflowing plates of oysters, prawns and everything else they could scavenge back to their offspring. For $80 a head (wine not included) if you’ve got the mentality to eat your monies worth its probably good value but we felt like something smaller, so we went for the ala carte menu.
You can tell head chef Marshall Orton has planned for 90% of his clientelé to take the buffet option; it sure looked like they did. I only saw two other tables out of the full restaurant ordering off the menu and a queue for the seafood. The menu is short and has fairly simple dishes from and nothing you wouldn’t expect to see at a pub with the obligatory pad thai, t-bone with chips, fish (roast snapper) and a tandori chicken. It all seemed fairly pedestrian with only Miles’s meal served with any restaurant flare and by that I mean everything was stacked on top of each other. The current menu can be found on the website.
One nice touch was the appetizer that was served to us, a small ball of duck confit and orange marmalade served on a bed of lettuce. It tasted quite bland an uninteresting, but as it turns out they forgot the orange marmalade on ours. This wasn’t the only thing that was missing from the dishes we were served either. I ended up ordering the t-bone with “a roast tomato ragu and a creamy pepper sauce served with shoestring french fries”. The roast tomato ragu at least had tomato in it but it was just roughly diced fresh tomato in a warmed up pasta sauce – there was no way these tomatoes could have ever seen the inside of an oven; there wasn’t even the slightest hint of caramlisation any good roasted tomato has. The fries seemed to be of the McCain variety, either deep fried at too low a temperature or were left to defrost and get laden with water leaving them soggy. The pepper jus that was served was honestly very nice, rich thick and concentrated with steak, balsamic vinegar and rosemary flavours and would have gone very well with the roasted tomato ragu, if it had had roast tomato in it. Note that I said it was a pepper jus and not a creamy pepper sauce? Guess what was missing. I find it difficult to believe that a restaurant of this size and supposed calibre can deliver very basic dishes so far removed from the menu.
Miles also had the beef. A 120 day grain fed Darling Downs beef filet served with Parisian style butter on green beans and a potato cake. It was well presented, stacked a good six inches high with the same jus that accompanied my steak, minus the pepper, drizzled around the side. The report on it was generally positive, although the potato was a little under done.
To counter balance the average food were some excellent wines, chosen by the Sommelier, Toby Graham, to fill out the wine list. For the main I chose an ‘04 Wantirna Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (List Price $112, Store Price $60-$70). The wine itself is quite nice and is more complex than you’d expect from just a Cab Sav Merlot, and that’s probably because there’s actually some Cab Franc and Petit Verdot in the bottle too. Overall, the wine has a nice blackcurrant to mulberry flavour with the classic merlot dusty finish. If you’re looking for it in a store, Wantirna Estate is the one with the Michael Leunig cartoons on the labels.
When it came to dessert, I wanted a bottle of something else to go with our Lenôtre Frambrosier’s so I asked Toby for a recommendation. There was the obligatory Noble One, but I thought that the overpowering honey in it would kill the delicate raspberries and cream in the dessert, Toby agreed and recommended the 2005 Grande Maison Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Muscadelle from Monbazillac in France (List Price, $51/375mL, Store price $30/375mL). I found that it had soft hay-like flavour, not grassy at all, it was drier and warm but with a definite floral sweetness that worked well with the dessert.
The Sofitel, being owned by the French Accor group have enlisted, under license, Lenôtre to provide desserts and cakes for its hotels, they look stunning, particularly the signature Frambrosier, which looks like a giant pink lamington topped with fresh raspberries and a raspberry sugar swirl. Within the gayest dessert of all time are layers of sponge cake with a raspberry centre, covered in cream and then a pink coconut (I think it’s pink coconut anyway). Given that it’s a sponge cake with cream and a raspberry centre I was expecting something more like a molleaux which is an individual cake that has a liquid sauce centre that spills out across the plate when you cut into it. The frambrosier certainly had the potential for it. I’m still not sure if what we got was meant to be a molleaux because they were half frozen. The bottom and centre were practically solid with the top had just started to soften. I don’t know if you’ve ever frozen cream but it doesn’t work – large ice crystals form and when you cut into it, it splinters apart. At the very least, these desserts should be served only slightly chilled to show their true potential, and meet their hype.
The highlight of Thyme² has got to be Toby Graham’s wine list and the quite knowledgeable service he provides. Toby has been studying and working with wines for over 15 years and answered all of our questions quickly and with confidence, not only suggesting wines but explaining why he’d suggested them which for mark-ups like these is great because he can help narrow down the choices for you – sure all sommeliers should do this, it’s their job, but Toby does it well.
Up Stairs, Down Stairs
Saying that though it still beats being downstairs with the commoners fighting for a bottle of Mount Franklin and the last Whopper. At least here they form an orderly queue to fight for the last re-heated deep fried, umm... I guess it's meant to be a pork dumpling? It's too big for a wonton and it's the wrong shape for a dim sim. Who knows, it was full of reclaimed pork what ever it was.

My flight out, QF548, after boarding at least (the attendant that
was relegated to Y Class was quite rude)
was splendid under the Cabin Manager I flew with, Julianne. This is
the second or third time I've had the privilege of flying with her
and I hope I'll be able to again. Service in the business cabin was
smooth, efficient and personable, as I'd mentioned before - the
simple things of being called by name are the things that really
make the difference between service and quality that despite it's
industry reputation, factions of Qantas flight crew are actually
striving to achieve.
As for the meal, my seat buddy Corey and I we were served a
reasonable beef in oyster sauce with jasmine rice and a 'salad'. I
say 'salad' because it only just qualified as one. In my opinion a
salad needs two ingredients and this only had two different types
of lettuce. The spicy asian vinaigrette from Neil Perry that went with it was
wonderful, I even put some on the beef because the sauce that had
was quite plain. I was actually surprised with the bread roll, it
was incredibly soft. I guess Qantas realised they shouldn't arm
200+ passengers with their previous hard as a brick projectiles.
The wine was quite nice too - a 2004 Penfolds Shiraz with a deep cherry
note.

Hartley's Goosebery Jam
I wouldn't be in a hurry to buy another jar, probably more because I hardly eat jam in the first place but I'll keep an eye out for a better quality or a home made gooseberry jam next time.

The Worst Breakfast Ever

We found our table at 'Northern Bites'
on Manly's South Styne beachfront by walking past a row of cafes
and went to the one that smelt the nicest, I think we smelt some
french toast. I wish one of us had ordered it but cést la vie. I
hate to start a review so poorly, but there were so very few good
things to say about our experience here, what was good had more to
do with the scenery walking past to and from the surf carnival that
was on that day. It took 20 minutes for someone to take our order
and another 20 more minutes for my coffee to arrive which I'd
finished by the time my food did and Mel's meal didn't arrive until
after I'd finished eating mine. Appalling.
Of my big breakfast, everything was cold, except the baked beans
(cutely serviced in an espresso cup), and some how, even though the
food had been cold, the butter hadn't warmed up from being taken
out of the fridge. The hash brown was from a packet and so was the
bread. It's very disappointing because it still cost in the order
of $17 when the cafés on the same block had similar meals with
potato rosti, organic sourdough and organic lamb sausages... There
really wasn't anything to say that stood out from that meal, I
stopped eating half way through. Heck, they even just served slices
of tomato instead of the grilled tomato everywhere else does.

Saturday morning breakfasts are meant
to be a casual affair, but if it was any more casual I'd still be
waiting. Again, I'm sorry to sound so negative about it, but the
excuse were given about why Mel's eggs benedict being an hour was
because the guy they went to Coles to *BUY* the hollandaise sauce
hadn't come back yet. What cafe BUYS hollandaise sauce, and then
admits it to their customers? Even though I got mine faster 15
minutes before Mel, my food was only just warm, to the point that
the fat had started to congeal.
Food, 3/10 - their big breakfast had everything
you'd expect, but the lowest quality possible
Service, 2/10 - only because two of the waiters
were good looking, and one of them very obviously wasn't wearing
underwear
Coffee, 5/10 - it arrived 20 minutes after I
ordered but it was hot and good quality
Value, 1/10 - I'd only give a zero if they took my
money and didn't feed me
Location, 8/10 - nothing you couldn't have gotten
from anywhere else on the street
It's only saving grace was the coffee and location, but I am sure
any other cafe on the beachfront in Manly could do better

Kangarila Road Zinfandel

SMACKDOWN – Maggie Beer vs. Stephanie Alexander
Ever since Stephanie “slow and steady” Alexander released the first edition of “The Cooks Companion”, everyone’s been waiting for Maggie “the verjuice vixen” Beer to throw a dirty left hook and bring out her own heavy weight cookbook. Maggie came into her own in the last round with “Maggie’s Harvest”. A damn fine effort and both gals have just about knocked each other out but this one is going to come down to points.

It has to be said that these are very different fighters, they have
their own unique sensibilities and style and the battle will be
tough but with out further a due, here’s the
fight!
The Weigh-in:
| The Cook’s
Companion |
Maggie’s
Harvest |
|
| Total Numbered
Pages |
1126 |
716 |
| Overall
Thickness |
700mm |
65mm |
| Weight |
2.494kg |
2.555kg |
| Price |
Found on sale for
<$80 |
First release price,
$125 |
| Quality of Book in
itself |
Solid, a true all-round
work horse that will always deliver |
Well polished but
possibly relying on her refined good looks |
| Coordination (Contents,
layout and index) |
Utilitarian
alphabetical with a tightly packed and often cross-referenced
index. Looses points with some noticeable omissions from the
index |
Seasoned (Summer,
Autumn, etc) content. Clear easy to use index, but lacking in the
cross-referencing of method, ingredient, style et al that is found
in TCC |
| Recent
Wins |
Stephanie has been a
stalwart of the industry, and a pioneer in Australia. Full
commendations to her persevering effort at all levels of the
industry. She may have run further back in the pack recently, but
her presence is still felt by all. |
Maggie started slow but
gallantly with Pheasant Farm and the associated restaurant. She
slowed, focusing on her strengths then shot out with Cook and the
Chef, winning acclaim, syndication and valuable marketing for her
strong brand. |
Round 1 – The random page:
This round is conducted in two sections, first, TCC is opened to a random page and the recipes for that section are assessed. Maggie’s Harvest is then searched for recipes in the index for that ingredient and compared for quality and originality, then the same, with the names reversed.
The Cooks Companion: Sausages
| The Cook’s
Companion |
Maggie’s
Harvest |
|
| Pages |
9 |
4 |
| Recipes |
9 |
2 |
| Most Original
Recipe |
Crépettes and
chestnuts |
Steve’s Sausages in
Grape Must |
| Best Sounding
Recipe |
Bratwurst in
beer |
Chicken and Tarragon
Sausages with Cumquats |
| Quality of introductory
material |
Brilliant encyclopedic
knowledge as with the vast majority of everything with it’s own
section in this book |
Anecdotal, but with
good substance and can be used as a great resource for
inspiration |
Maggie’s Harvest: Preserves and Pickles
| The Cook’s
Companion |
Maggie’s
Harvest |
|
| Pages |
36 |
5 |
| Recipes |
36 |
3 |
| Most Original
Recipe |
Pickled Sardines with
Chili |
Pickled Figs, Farm
Follies Style |
| Best Sounding
Recipe |
As
above |
As
above |
| Quality of introductory
material |
Again, brilliant
encyclopedic knowledge within each section, and here, the side
recipes prove their worth |
A narrative effort
again from Maggie, but she does leave you with the overwhelming
feeling she’s only given you her best |
Round 2 - General Content:
Stephanie’s book is cheaper and the physical book itself is a lower quality but I think this sacrifice is more than justified. To make her book in the same way Maggie did, she would have to have produced at least two volumes at at least $125 each. Both of these factors would have made the book un-economical and turned off many buyers. The Cook’s Companion truly lives up to it’s name providing a recipe for practically everything you will find in the suburban supermarket with hundreds of others for specalised ingredients, let alone the basics section which I use quite often. It really is a quick reference section for all of the basics, the simple master recipes for stock, muffins, pancakes; as well as definitions for methods and of ingredients that are in most people’s pantry but aren’t always truly understood, such as leaf gelatin.
Round 3 - Summary Findings
First off, I have to say, Maggie’s Harvest is an amazing book, her stories alone, especially the one with her and Stephanie Alexander alone in an out of the way farm house in rural France are priceless, if not suggestive, and her recipes are extraordinary. The production values of her book are un-known in the Australian market. She sacrifices no expense (because you’re the one that has to sacrifice the cost) in the book. The cover is bound in a front to back embroidery, the typeface is clear and well spaced on paper that will stand up to a very good amount of splashing in the kitchen.

The Winner: Stephanie Alexander’s The Cook’s Companion
TCC is the first cookbook you should buy. It might be intimidating
with out pictures, but with all honesty it will give the foundation
a potential cook should have and the solid backup an experienced
cook can fall back on. Maggie’s Harvest however, is as I said
earlier, a different contender. It’s not trying to be the
encyclopedia that The Cook’s Companion is, but at the same time,
the books compliment each other very well. There is little overlap,
except where required as a fundamental for more complicated recipes
where someone may not have acquired TCC first. Maggie’s recipes are
well written and clear so any cook with a modicum of confidence
should be able to manage. Stephanie’s can be a bit more technical,
but those recipes are balanced with the simple ones people can
attempt first to build their confidence.
Eva Solo Grill - R2D2 and C3PO's love child
The first thing you notice about the Eva Solo Grill is it's striking resemblance to R2D2 and C3PO's love child. The entire thing is made from stainless steel, meaning it'll stand up to anything and last forever and it's quite well designed too. One of the side panels can be easily pulled off to revealing the ashtray and under that there is enough storage space for all it's accessories and everything you need to grill with, except the dome lid. The flat lid that comes with the grill standard can be used as a side table when not otherwise covering the grill when you purchase the optional 'legs'. I've found them surprisingly useful.

After a little practice cooking with charcoal, you can turn out
some excellent meals. I've made everything from simple burgers, bbq
prawns, a leg of lamb and even a few pizzas (with a pizza stone
sitting on the grill bars). There aren't many downsides to this
gorgeous piece of equipment, but there are some to keep in mind. It
comes in two sizes, of course I got the large one, but it feels a
little bit of overkill when I'm only cooking for 1-2 people,
sometimes even 3 seems a little much depending what's on the menu.
At the same time, with a few friends over, the smaller one would
have made cooking something like the leg of lamb almost impossible.
I'd still recommend going for the larger one. The only other draw
back has to be said. The price. The basic
grill is AUD$2300, and that just includes the grill and the
lid. Everything else is an expensive optional extra, expensive even
in the context of already having paid $2.3k for it. Heck, the dome
lid alone is nearly $400. I'm sure you can get it much cheaper in
the US or Europe, closer to the manufacturer and with a larger
market. With the optional accessories, and not including the
matching bbq utensils, you're looking at an investment of over
$3000... The utensils will add about another $400.
Since the average bbq's life span is 5 years and this one is
expected to literally last a life time, the cost per year, even
over just 20 years is only $150 which starts to look more
realistic.

If you're looking for a bit of the Eva Solo style with out that
price tag you might want to think about the table top grill. It's
made with white porceline and stainless steel inserts. For the
times when I'm cooking for 1-2 or just need that bbq flavour on
something, I think I might just get that too! :)
Sofitel Brisbane's Club Lounge
Only the foyer and club lounge look half way modern with natural materials and tones and the unfortunately named Thyme² restaurant and someone in the Accor marketing departments' insistence on calling the buffet an 'interactive experience', so you can have an 'interactive breakfast if you'd like. What's so interactive about some tourist getting up off their fat ass and getting their own bacon and scrambled eggs from a bane marie? The club lounge though, is wonderful, if it weren't for parents using it as a play room for their screaming, bored and running a mock toddlers. Almost every single time I've been here this week there has been at least one family with screaming children. I'm not a parent myself so I can't appreciate what it's like but at what point do parents stop remembering what it's like to try and enjoy a nice relaxing breakfast and let their own children get away with running into some one else's table and knocking their cup of coffee into their plate of scrambled eggs and fresh fruit?
As far as the club lounge is concerned, toddlers withstanding, the service is incredibly personable, having the staff remember your name and continuing polite conversation throughout your stay is a great plus in my book. As I'm writing this I'm sitting in the club lounge, just finishing my new years day champagne breakfast. It's nothing special admittedly, each day it's been scrambled eggs, bacon, mushrooms and occasional tomato for hot food, plus there is a great selection of fresh fruit, yoghurt, smoothies, toast and pastries. The choices at the 'interactive breakfast' were much better, sausages, eggs benedict, pancakes,
Through out the day a cycle of sandwich fingers and small cakes and slices are run through and of an evening, an open bar with a selection of well made and tasty (ie: not the cheap crap I got at the Hilton) warm food including spring rolls, samosas etc, plus an excellent anti-pasti platter including great smoked salmon. I'd highly recommend staying on a club floor, or even just paying for the upgrade just to access the lounge.
Qantas Club Lounge
Hilton Sydney Room Service - Part 2

The cheese platter was washed down by another gin and tonic or three, and since I'd anticipated luxurious room service all day I skipped lunch and my stomach was rumbling. Browsing through the lengthy room service menu I finally settled on the "3 mini-burgers" and some buffalo wings.
The 3 mini burgers were the highlight, but nothing outstanding. It was a nice concept and worked well visually, the problem though was that other than the beef patty, lamb patty and chicken tenderloin on each burger, the rest were identical, a slice of tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise. They relied too heavily on the meat. When your concept is to have three individual burgers, you'd expect you'd do something so each one stood out individually? It would have been an easy fix, some caramelized onion on the beef, a dab or tzatziki instead of the mayo on the lamb, and perhaps some chili on the chicken?
As for the buffalo wings, they hardly rate a mention. They were warm and had a crispy skin with paprika and basic spices.
Breakfast the following morning was back in the club lounge and was equally disappointing as the canapes the night before. Just the stock standard sliced fruit, juices and cereals on the cold side of the buffet and on the warm there was just bacon, hash browns, sausages, scrambled eggs and grilled tomatoes. Individually everything was nice enough, but it certainly didn't hold a torch to the Sofitel Melbourne's breakfast buffet, they even had pancakes!
Hilton Sydney Room Service - Part 1
But this is a food blog.
Since I was in a suite I had access to the club lounge and complimentary pre-dinner drinks and canapes. Free gin always gets thumbs up as far as I'm concerned, but I'd need more than the couple I had to distract from what they tried to pass off as food. There wasn't anything you wouldn't have found in the freezer section of your local supermarket and with absolutely no attempt at masking that it came from one. I held higher hopes for the room service I was going to order later.
A quick call to room service after the stodge in the club lounge I'd ordered a cheese platter. For about $20 it was a lot better than I expected, the standard cheeses, blue, camembert and cheddar were accounted for along with a good selection of bready things to put the cheese on, wafers, grissini sticks and a few others. What made this so nice were the quality accoutrements. Fresh strawberries, dried apricots, muscatels and dried figs! My favorite.
As for the main meal, we'll get to that next.