Dessert

Gingerbread and Champagne Marshmallows

Every year the residents of the street that I live on get together, put up some christmas lights and catch up on the year parts or in the case of new people to the street, meet everyone else. We all bought a plate or two. Given how my marshmallows went over at my housewarming earlier in the year and that the neighbors that I did invite liked them I thought I’d make some more. Something a bit more festive than last time though; gingerbread and champagne.

They both went down quite well amongst the people in the street with no real clear favorite. The champagne flavour was quite subtle but there nonetheless and the gingerbread tasted just like you’d expect, just more fluffy in texture.

Gingerbread and Champagne Marshmallows

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Mango and Black Pepper Ice Creams

Now that’s a taste sensation if ever I’ve had one. This mango ice cream, since it’s made with not much more than fresh mango is better than any you’ll find at the supermarket but that’s got nothing on the black pepper ice cream.

Yeah, black pepper. Ice cream. It’s strangely sweet too, even if it leaves your lips tingling. Give it a go, you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the subtle fruitiness that pepper actually has. Of course, you can always tone down the amount of pepper in the recipe, or if you want, sift out the powder and just use the larger cracked pieces, I didn’t and as such the ice cream looks decidedly chocolate.

Mango and Bacl Pepper ice Cream

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Brioche Pudding with Dried Figs

To follow up the four hour roast beef that I made for the dinner with my friends on Tuesday I figured I’d go for something quick and easy for me that I could pretty much make ahead of time. The brioche can be cut and buttered and left covered until it’s time to go in the oven, the custard can be too. It only takes 10 minutes to make the toffy which you’ll have while you wait for the pudding to cool slightly anyway.

This was meant to just have cherries in it but I forgot to get them that day so I rummaged around the the cupboard and cheated a little with a packet of Whisk & Pin dried fruit compote that was mostly figs which I love so hey, figs it was! They worked really well if I do say so myself.

Brioche Pudding with Dried Figs
Brioche Pudding with Dried Figs

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Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream

Something pretty simple I know, but with the aim of showing you all what I eat, and more importantly make myself I thought I’d share anyway. Sometimes I’ve found that just seeing something as simple as this really sparks the imagination and the taste buds so try this with either a single type of berry if you want it to compliment a particular meal.

Even better, it is very easy to make, can be made days in advance and you’ve probably got everything in the cupboard anyway.

Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream

Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream - Serves 4
1 packet of flavoured jelly crystals (any berry or even port-wine)
1 packet of frozen berries, thawed (any, or a mix)
Ice Cream

Make jelly as per packet instructions. Put in fridge and chill for an hour and a half or until the mix is quite thick but not set. Stir in berries.

If the berries do sink to the bottom before it sets, or you forget the jelly in the fridge before adding them place the moulds in a sink and add hot water until it comes half way up the sides. The jelly will soften enough so you can add the berries or stir them through again.

Leave to set then serve with ice cream.

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Walloon Biscuits

Following are brief excerpts of an email conversation of last night held between myself and a friend of mine after I’d baked turkish bread. Now, I know Luther quite well but I’m still not sure if he started out joking that I should make the Urban Dictionary’s version of Belgian Biscuits given his reference to them being made from real Belgians or the one he linked the recipe for but hey, I made the ones with pink icing. I only made a half batch and added the seeds from a vanilla pod as well. The cinnamon and vanilla add a nice level of complexity to the raspberry jam. The biscuits spread more in the oven than I’d expected too, they started out at about 4cm across and doubled in size. I’d make smaller ones if I were you.

From: Luther
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 10:48:49 PM
To: Will

This weekend's cooking challenge: Belgian biscuits. =P

From: Will
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 11:23:41 PM
To: Luther

Belgian biscuits?

From: Luther
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 11:58:29 PM
To: Will

Made from real Belgians! (Mind you, at this rate they'll eventually be called Walloon biscuits... depending upon your knowledge of world affairs. =)

http://www.chelsea.co.nz/ViewRecipe.aspx?id=711

From: Will
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 25 October 2008 2:22:23 AM
To: Luther

I'll see what I can come up with :D

Belgian Biscuits
Belgian Biscuits

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Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts

Every now and again you come across a word you think is a bit of an exaggeration, but then once you follow through with it you find out it’s an understatement. Really I should have picked it from the recipe but I had enough on my mind to really think it through. Five eggs, a bit of brandy, mascarpone, half a kilo of nuts and plenty of dark chocolate. Yeah. Rich. It was as much of a meal as the Spiced Lamb Pistachio and Beetroot Salad I actually had for dinner.

Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts
Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts

Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts
250g hazelnuts
250g of almond meal
250g of dark chocolate, finely chopped
100mL of brandy
60mL of espresso
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons of milk
1 cup of caster sugar
5 large eggs, separated
1 tub of mascarpone

Heat the oven to 180ºC. Grease two 20cm sponge tins and dust with cocoa. Roast the hazelnuts on an oven tray for 15 minutes until the skins are blackened, wrap in a tea-towel and let them steam and cool. Rub off the skins then grind in a food processor.

Mix the first seven ingredients plus half of the sugar and the egg yolks in a large bowl until well combined. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl to soft peaks then slowly beat in the rest of the sugar until the egg whites are glossy. In several small batches, gently mix the egg whites into the cake mix. Divide the mix between the two sponge tins and bake in the middle shelf of the oven for 45min to an hour or until a skewer comes out clean, or with a few crumbs. Leave it to cool .

Spread the mascarpone on the top of one of the cakes then squish the second one on top, dusk with icing sugar and serve with either more mascarpone or some ice cream.


UPDATE: I gave the rest of this cake to some friends the following day and it tasted even better once the flavours had time to properly mingle with each other. So I’d recommend making the cakes, leaving them wrapped in plastic in the fridge for 24 hours and then spreading them with mascarpone and serving it with ice cream.

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White Degustation and the Hilton Auckland

I had to go back to Sydney early from my New Zealand trip so I can sit an exam and since I hadn’t had any luck finding the quite space I needed to read the text books I’d lugged around with me thus far I booked myself two days in Harbour View room at the Hilton Auckland (I got a good deal at wotif). The hotel itself is smaller than I thought and felt cramped every time I walked through the lobby but the rest of the hotel is quite spacious. The room I was in had a very large marble bathroom with separate bath and shower, the rest of the room contained a king size bed, 32” LCD TV and DVD player and a desk. Then there was the balcony - the same size as the room itself! The only complaint with it is that even though there are double sliding doors opening on to it, there was a concrete pillar in the middle of them making getting outside a little awkward and blocked the view from inside.

Nasi Goreng @ Hilton Auckland
I hadn’t had breakfast that morning so once I settled into the room, opened all the draws and flicked all the light switches I had a look at the room service menu. There was all of the standard fare you get at the Hilton plus the specialised items from the hotels restaurant. I ordered the Nasi Goreng, just a light meal. Presented well, the rice moulded in a bowl and turned out into the plate with a fried egg across the top, tomato and cucumber slices fanned around the edge and individual bowls of chili paste, soy and dried fish so they could all be added to taste, a single large prawn cracker and three small chicken satay skewers to the side. Flavour wise it was more subtle than I’m used to, all of the flavours were balanced so it was a clearly deliberate choice and it certainly wasn’t bland per se but I could see a lot of people thinking it was.

The second night I stayed I went to White, the hotel’s restaurant with Italian chef Cristiano De Martin running the show. You can see his European training and years of dedicated practice in the way every dish was executed, starting with the produce then preparation and cooking then finally the presentation. De Martin’s dedication to his food extends to joint venture called Homegrown with NZ primary producers to source the best ingredients. I can’t see any losers here, especially as I get presented with my first course.

Starting off with Heart of the Desert saffron infused carrot soup with parsley foam it’s not surprising De Martin highlights one of his Homegrown partners in Heart of the Desert saffron. Who knew that NZ can grow it given 90% of the world production is from Iran? The soup itself was good blending the more complex earthier kiwi saffron standing up against fresh sweet carrots. The parsley foam was wispy and delicate adding a level of texture and evening out the parsley flavour so that no mouthful could ever be overpowed with a herb than can taste like grass if you get a mouthful of it unexpectedly.

Contrasting the soup’s delicate flavour profile is the Northland kingfish carpaccio, spiced shallots with citrus and sesame dressing and mini coriander leaves hitting you with an incredible burst starting out with the lime that is made palatable with the shallots, coriander and sesame on the finish. Without any one of these the dish wouldn’t balance but here all of the flavours are inline leaving you with the amazingly fresh kingfish carpaccio. The mouthfeel of the slightly oily kingfish sliced paper thin and served raw as it melds itself with the rest of the flavours creating one of those moments you sit up and pay attention to what you’re eating.

I love duck and I eat it quite often but until now I hadn’t actually had the chance to make or try tea smoked duck. I made tea smoked snapper a few weeks ago as a trial before I give it ago on duck. Now I’ve got a gold standard to aim for. A salad of tea smoked duck resting on crisp filo pastry, pistachio, celery and grapes with a blueberry and riesling verjus dressing was a familiar yet different taste. Smoking the duck adds a soft undertone to each bite that while you can tell it is there, at no point does it distract you from the duck itself or any other ingredient. Pistachio as a nut has an odd flavour that wouldn’t have worked if the duck wasn’t smoked. A lesser chef would have either used hazelnut that I think would have enhanced the smoke and overpowered the rest of the salad or blanched almods simply for texture. The filo pastry was disappointing, it seemed more like a layer of cardboard where I was expecting the salad to be perched on top of individual layers of delicate filo. Did you notice something missing in the picture? When I was served the dish I thought it was odd but there isn’t a black/purple drizzle across the top. I’m not sure how they did it, but blueberry skin wasn’t in the ingredient list for the dressing so it’s is perfectly clear. The two black half circles are grapes.

Scallops are tender pillows of shellfish that have a sweeter meat than crayfish. Their intense flavour, despite that they’re physically delicate, means they can carry other strong flavours and De Martin picked almost a surf and turf with Spirits Bay scallops seared with crispy pancetta, apple pureé and a snow pea salad with cabernet sauvignon vinegar glaze. Even before the plate lands you can smell the pancetta and the bacon instinct kicks in and your nose is in the air trying to breathe it all in. The pancetta releases so much of it’s flavour as it’s friend in the pan next to the scallops that they seem to soak it up like a sponge. The drizzle of glaze on the plate was incredibly intense and perfect for cutting through the pancetta’s fat so you can reclaim the scallop’s individuality.

The Assistant Manager (who did an amazing job all night) disagreed with the chef on his choice of wine for a number of dishes and I either saw her point or agreed completely. This time I only saw her point. She gave me some of the listed wine, a Cloudy Bay ‘08 Sauvignon Blanc, and the wine she thought was best, a Brancott ‘07 Sauvignon Blanc, both from the Malborough. I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t have said either were a perfect match but then I can’t say what would have been either. The Cloudy Bay was good at balancing the glaze and pancetta but destroyed the apple and scallop where as the Brancott was obliterated by the fat. Given the focus of this dish was scallops, not pancetta I’d have erred on the side of caution and taken the Bancott as the manager suggested.

Kaffir Lime Sorbet @ White, Auckland NZ
A Kaffir Lime sorbet broke the meal. It tasted like the only possible way you could have that much lime flavour in a that glass was if someone froze and blended the lime itself. It had such a fresh taste to it, probably enhanced by the fact it was frozen, but it could have easily been the smell of a fresh picked lime. My guess is it was probably oil from the skin being sprayed in to and incorporated with the mix.






The headline of the show for an international hotel in NZ was of course the Hawke’s Bay lamb loin roasted with garden herbs, parsnip créme and crisps, manuka smoked olives, lemon and Te Arai Extra Virgin emulsion. The lamb was cooked a touch longer than I’d have liked but within tolerances for medium-rare so it did benefit from the olive oil and parsnip mash for moistness. That’s not to say it wasn’t full of flavour; I’d say the kiwi’s have made a good go at it. Infact given the better farming and grazing weather in NZ for the past few years, their lambs might just be better than the Australians. For now. Picking up some of the smoked olives with the lamb made for a nice way to extend the otherwise limited range of flavours on the plate, the parsnips and olive oil seemed to take on a new life. Half way through I’d ran out and wished there were more, olives, not parsnip.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get the names of the two cheeses served on this course but they seemed along the lines of a mature cheddar and a firmer white mould cheese along the lines of a costello perhaps? As I was dining alone, I think I received a hastily cut down portion. There was just simply not enough cheese to try all of the condiments with at least one cheese, there weren’t even enough wafers. Still, it was nice for a course designed to transition your palette from red meat to dessert.




Chef's Selection of Desserts @ White, Auckland NZ
Of course, at the end of any meal you can’t go past dessert and what a dessert. The menu called for a chef’s selection and I don’t think there was anything left he hadn’t selected. When this course came up I was offered an extra glass of wine because there had been ‘an issue’ in the kitchen and I would have to wait an extra 10 minutes or so. What I think it was is that they couldn’t figure out how to present a dessert platter that’s designed for two people to a single person when most of the items are either slivers anyway or single units. Half a scoop of ice-cream anyone? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that if there were two people that I would have been disappointed with the portion size, there are four separate desserts for heavens sake but to cut them down further would have been unsightly. Which is why I got a dessert platter for two! It goes without saying that every single one of these desserts were delicious and flavour packed. No surprises in the taste, they were almost concentrated in their own flavour. So clockwise from the back we’ve got an apple galette topped with vanilla ice cream, vanilla panna-cotta with raspberry compote, lemon cheesecake, dark chocolate hazelnut torte with a scoop of hazelnut ice-cream.


I ordered an espresso to go with the petit four which was basically a sphere of pear and cream that finished the meal as I sat and waited for it to move itself below my centre of gravity and chatted to an Australian couple that also had the degustation whom asked me how I enjoyed it and gave them my Red Whisk business card so they can come and look at the pictures. My sincerest apologies have to go to them for the delay in posting this article.

All in all, I really quite enjoyed visiting (and not as their guest, this was fully funded by The Red Whisk). Next time I visit Auckland I’m going to have to stay at the Hilton again. As far as international standards go the Hilton here is above the average. Sure there are some things that could be done better but they’re probably not going to be picked up or worried over by your average consumer. As for the restaurant, the service of the assistant manager scored herself a very generous tip for her friendly yet professional service keeping the person dining alone who didn’t bring a book to read company, her generosity in pouring wine and offering not only and alternative to the listed wines, but both!



Hilton Auckland and White Restaurant
Princess Wharf. 147 Quay Street
Auckland. 1010
NEW ZEALAND
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Mills Reef Winery

The point of the trip to New Zealand this year was to celebrate my mother's 50th birthday, so while my Aunts little monkeys were at school we took a trip out to one of NZ's top rated wineries, Mills Reef, in the Bay of Plenty region not far from Tauranga in the town of Bethlehem.

Mills Reef is hardly a stable but if the attitude of the staff on the restaurant is anything to go by then jebus himself was born here and it was our privilege to be on sacred ground but more on that in a minute. Going along Moffat Road and seeing the grounds appear before you is impressive with manicured lawns and rows of trees all leading up to the main building and it's own formal gardens but this is a working site. All of the processing, bottling and distribution happen here even though all of the grapes are bought and shipped from the not so far away Hawks Bay.

As you walk up from the car park the first door on the left is the tasting room so we went there first. As a tip for those visiting a winery with it's own restaurant, here's a good place to try a sip of a few things before you try and match them to your lunch and give you a chance to mull over which bottles you pick up.

Mills Reef Winery, 143 Moffat Road, Tauranga New Zealand
Mills Reef Winery, 143 Moffat Road, Bethlahem New Zealand

In the tasting room we met Ken, the cellar manager who ever so patiently walked my family through not only their range but the tasting process (lightest and brightest to heaviest and darkest). From what I could tell all of the prices for the wine were quite reasonable where as the souvenirs had souvenir prices.

After a few uhms and ahs we took a price list and headed for the empty restaurant. There was a choice of the outdoor terrace or inside a dining/function room. The enormous main dining room was having the air-conditioning replaced before summer. Not to worry because ir was spring after all and we chose a table on the terrace in the shade. Just like everyone else did but being outside the noise wasn't an issue and the tables were well spaced anyway. After the stop-off in the tasting room I picked my entrée and main based on their recommended wines and everyone else chose the recommended glass. I wanted to see how they stood up to good quality food and thankfully what came out of the kitchen was great. Luckily I was really only interest in their red wine because the restaurants fish order hadn't arrived to meet the demand of their predominantly fish based menu.

Going around the table my mother had their seafood trio and the Pinot Gris, a slight alteration due to the lack of fish she had a king prawn, scallops and a piece of salmon; my brother had the oysters and my aunt had the bread and dukka which surprised me. For such a simple sounding entrée the chef added a bit of flair throwing in a couple of different types of cibatta and more than just a simple dukka, there was some great avocado oil, tapenade and homemade pesto too. I had the chicken liver paté with truffles crostini and the Cab Melot, or at least that's what I ordered. Instead I got garlic crostini that worked very well and I wouldn't have had any complaints if only I hadn't ordered truffles. That and if I didn't have to wait 10 minutes and actually need to get up from by seat, walk through a construction site and find the wait staff and ask them for our wine. Even though there were a few people in the restaurant by that stage I find it hard to believe a winery restaurant forgot to bring the wine.

Seafood Trio @ Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Seafood Trio - Prawn, Salmon and Scallop

Cibatta with Dukka, Avocado Oil, Tapenade and Pesto. Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Cibatta with Dukka, Avocado Oil, Tapenade and Pesto

Chicken Liver and Cognac Paté and Fig Jam with Garlic Crostini. Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Chicken Liver and Cognac Paté and Fig Jam with Garlic Crostini


Main course ran smoother, Mum had the strawberry and asparagus salad with Kaimai Brie and a glass of the Sav Blanc which was tasty and exploration in vegetarian texture more than flavour, my brother had two giant lamb shanks that were cut above the knee and were so tender the meat would have literally fallen off the bone if he'd picked it up washed down with the Cab Sav. The meat was good quality lamb but seemed a little bland on it's own and relied in the jus to carry it. Mind you I only picked at his leftovers, so the most of the meat could have been fine. My Aunts Cajun chicken Caesar salad was generous, well seasoned. I had the lamb fillet that was cooked to a perfect pink with a blue cheese and pear salad with a walderberry jus, much like my favourite duck salad. The lamb itself seemed under seasoned but balanced out with some cracked pepper and the jus. The Merlot Malbec was a perfect match.

Asparagus, Strawberry, Avocado and Kaimai Brie Salad @ Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Asparagus, Strawberry, Avocado and Kaimai Brie

arm Lamb Fillet, Watercress and Baby Spinach Salad with Pear, Cashew, Kikorangi Blue and Walderberry Syrup @ Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Warm Lamb Fillet, Watercress and Baby Spinach Salad with Pear, Cashew, Kikorangi Blue and Walderberry Syrup

Lamb Shanks Braised with Wholegrain Mustard on Green Pea and Potato Mash. Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Lamb Shanks Braised with Wholegrain Mustard on Green Pea and Potato Mash

Dessert. Only mother and I had dessert, her with the mandarin and cinnamon spring rolls which looked delicious and I had the 'ode to the lemon' which was a set of three lemon desserts starting with a lemon curd in a bitter chocolate case the size of a patty-pan, a lemon cremé brûlée in an espresso cup and a scoop of lemon ice cream in a parfait glass. All of which matched brilliantly in their own way to the riesling ice wine. If only it was delivered with the course. As the waitress walked off I called out "um, and our wine?" She flicked her nose up and walked off in acknowledgement. I waited. I waited. Again I got up and asked for my wine yet again. The excuse was they were waiting for the others coffee to be made before they bought out all of the drinks. Pity my ice cream had melted and my crem brule was cold by the time it arrived.

The location, food and wine at Mills Reef are nothing to complain about but the attitude and service of the restaurant wait staff really left more a lot to be desired.

Nectarine and Honey Spring Rolls rolled in Cinnamon Sugar served with Blueberry Syrup and Vanilla Ice Cream @ Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Nectarine and Honey Spring Rolls rolled in Cinnamon Sugar served with Blueberry Syrup and Vanilla Ice Cream

Burnt Lemon Curd, Lemon Crem Brule and Lemon Ice Cream @ Mills Reef Winery, Bethlahem New Zealand
Burnt Lemon Curd, Lemon Crem Brule and Lemon Ice Cream

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Oatmeal and Blueberry Cookies

At my housewarming I invited over my neighbors as a gesture of good faith just incase we got a little too ruccus and couldn’t sleep. They can hardly complain if they were part of it now can they? :P As a plesant surprise it turns out my neighbours are a wonderful couple. They told me all about the neighbours, stopping short of gossip. Who’s renovating, who isn’t social, who doesn’t pick up after their dog etc. Great neighboury stuff which is exactly what I was looking for when I moved here.

Not long afterwards they invited me to their house for dinner to meet some of the other people from the street. It was a dinner party, a real dinner party with linen table cloths, napkins and the good silver.

Oatmeal and Blueberry Cookies
Oatmeal and Blueberry Cookies

As a thank-you I thought I’d make a small batch of cookies for them, but what? They had to be wholesome, they were a gift for a neighbor afterall and you can’t get any more wholesome than oatmeal cookies but of course I had to jazz it up a little. Forget the raisins. Blueberries were the go! I was going to use dried cherries but I couldn’t find them anywhere. Of course the week after I found them at David Jones. To give them a bit of extra depth you don’t usually find in oatmeal cookies I used rolled oats and rolled rye that have an earthier flavour that isn’t overpowering. If you cant find or cant be bothered, just use all oat.

Oatmeal and Blueberry Cookies - makes 24
150 grams unsalted butter, softened
⅓ cup of brown sugar
⅓ castor sugar
1 large egg
¾ cups of rolled oats
¾ cups of rolled rye
¾ cups of flour
1 teaspoon of bicarb
½ teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of vanilla
2 cups of dried blueberries (or any other dried fruit)


Preheat your oven to 200ºC. Beat together the butter and sugars until they are light and fluffy. It won’t be as pale as regular creamed butter and sugar because of the brown sugar so don’t worry about that. On a lower speed, add the egg and vanilla. Sift the flour and mix in the dry ingredients.

When well combined, but not over mixed, place dessert spoonfuls of the mix on a greased or properly lined baking tray about 4 or 5 cm apart. Learn from my mistake - if you use cookie sheets be prepared for the excess butter melting out of the cookies and going all over the place!

If you’ve got an even temp oven, bake two sheets at a time for 12 minutes. Mine isn’t so good so I did 1 sheet at a time checking after 10 min and rotating the tray.

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Apple and Hazelnut Brown Butter Cake

Via The Kitchn, I came across something stunning that I knew I had to bake as soon as humanly possible. A Hazelnut and Brown Butter Cake covered in chocolate ganache. Of course, I threw in my own twist with a layer of apple between the cake and the chocolate, to make it my own. Pears would have worked well too but I happened to have some delicious apples sitting around that were begging to be eaten.

Hazlenut and Apple Cake with Chocolate Granache
Hazelnut and Apple Cake with Chocolate Ganache



This isn't any ordinary cake, it's more of a dacquoise which is a meringue or cream with ground nuts mixed in. Today I used Hazelnuts left over from the torte I made a few weeks ago. The tricky things with this cake is the air bubbles from the beaten eggs is what gives this cake its light and delicate structure, and probably explains why mine sunk a little in the middle and broke apart as it cooled. Chocolate to the rescue to cover those bits up though!

Apple and Hazelnut and Brown Butter Cake

1 Cup of Hazelnuts
3 Apples
250g Unsalted Butter
1 Vanilla Bean
1 Cups of Icing Sugar
Cups of Flour
5 Egg Whites
3 Tablespoons of Castor Sugar
100 grams Dark Chocolate
⅓ Cup of Thickened Cream

Pre-heat the oven to 170°C

Place the hazelnuts on a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes. When done wrap them in a tea-towel and let them steam until cool. Rub them in the towel to remove all of the skins.

Line the bottom of a 10" cake tin with baking paper and butter the edges. Slice the apples thinly and layer evenly on the bottom of the cake tin.

Place the butter and seeds from the vanilla bean in a saucepan and melt together, stirring often until the butter has browned.

Grind the hazelnuts and icing sugar together until the nuts are fine, mix with the flour and set aside.

In a stand mixer, whisk together the egg whites and castor sugar until stiff-peaks are formed in the egg whites. Alternating between the nut mixture and the butter in thirds, combine with the egg whites. Pour the final mixture over the apples in the cake tin and bake in the oven for 40 minutes.

Let the cake cool completely and turn out, upside down on the platter you're going to serve it on so the apples are on top.

While the cake is cooling, over a double boiler melt the chocolate and then whisk in the cream. Pour the ganache over the cake and spread evenly. Allow to cool and set.



Update: Actually, after typing out the recipe, I think I forgot to add the flour! It still looks and tastes okay but it would add to the reason the cake was so delicate.

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Plum and Hazelnut Torte

A few days ago I went to Paddy's Market to see what was in season. Dodging through the swarm of bewildered hunter gatherers the pick of the crop this past Sunday seemed to be the plums, particularly some Angena Plums. I'd never really seen these before; growing up we'd just pick the blood red plums off our neighbors' the trees that were hanging over the fence. They're quite small little things, they seemed to taste the same as any other yellow fleshed plum except the skin isn't quite so bitter. Perhaps I should have picked up the sugar plums? They don't have a bitter skin which is why they taste sweeter. Regardless, I left them sitting and ripening on my kitchen bench wondering what to do with them until I came across this torte recipe. A torte is just like any cake, except that it uses ground nuts instead of all or part of the flour, in this case my favorite, hazelnuts.

Angena Plums
Bowl of Angena Plums

Plum and Hazelnut Torte - Serves 8 or more
700g of Plums, quartered and pitted
1 Cup of Sugar
¾ Cup of Hazelnuts
1¼ Cup of Flour
¼ teaspoon of Salt
1½ teaspoons of Baking Powder
½ teaspoon of Allspice
¾ Cups of Butter
3 large Eggs
1 teaspoon of vanilla

Preheat your oven to 175°C. Butter and flour a 9" spring form cake tin.

Quarter and pit plums. Coarsely chop half of plums and in a bowl toss with 2 tablespoons sugar. In another bowl combine remaining plums with 2 tablespoons sugar. The chopped plums will go into the batter, and the quartered plums will decorate the top. On a baking sheet in middle of oven lightly toast hazelnuts until fragrant and insides are golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Put all of the nuts into a clean tea-towel and rub them together to remove the burnt loose papery skins and when cool, grind them in a food processor until fine.

In a bowl whisk together hazelnuts, flour, baking powder, salt, and allspice. In a bowl with an electric mixer beat butter and remaining ¾ cup sugar until light and fluffy, the colour will change to a very pale yellow. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating after each addition, and beat in vanilla and flour mixture until batter is just combined. Note, add the flour to the batter, and not the other way around.

Drain chopped plums in a sieve, pressing on fruit, and pat dry with paper towels. Stir plums into batter and spread evenly in pan.

Drain quartered plums in sieve, pressing on fruit, and arrange, skin sides up, over batter. Bake torte in middle of oven 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until golden brown and a tester comes out clean. Cool torte in pan on a rack 30 minutes. Remove side of pan and cool completely.

Hazelnut and Plum Torte

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Maggie Beer Makes Some Very Adult Ice Cream

Maggie Beer, every gay foodie's favourite fag hag (thanks Simon) has released a small range of ice cream. Honestly, I'm not sure when but I found it in my supermarket a few weeks ago. Valiantly, I put on 3kg so you didn't have to. The side of the tub suggests all you need to enjoy these ice creams is a spoon; and until I hit the bottom of each tub that's what I did. Seriously, I put on 3kg...

Maggie Beer's Ice Cream

As I said, the range is small, four flavours. Vanilla and Elderflower being the most pedestrian. What makes this special is the use of real vanilla, when you open the tub your confronted with a pastel orange with millions of flecks of real vanilla that run through the entire tub. For those of you that haven't had elderflower before, it's got a slight floral/orange taste. The berries from the same bush are actually used for sambucca, but that's mixed with anise so they have a very different flavour from each other. Personally I prefer bergamot to elderflower, but that's just me. No judgement on Maggie because this is still a nice variation on vanilla. I'd go with Maggie's serving suggestion and throw a dash of liqueur or an espresso.

Next off the bat is the passionfruit. It's made with real passionfruit (16%) so there is none of that sickly artificial flavour that comes with some passionfruit ice cream. It delivers what it promises, a clean refreshing and somehow honest passionfruit flavour, although that's let down by the lack of crunch from black passionfruit pips you'd otherwise expect from a real passionfruit. Your call if that's a good thing or a bad thing. Again, as Maggie suggests, a pavlova with fresh passionfruit pulp would be ideal.

Then, you have the real adult flavours. I wouldn't suggest serving these to the kids. For those that have even a single cookbook by Maggie Beer you will know she has a few obsessions. Pheasants, verjuice and quinces. Her quince and bitter almond ice cream is great but it needs a counterpoint. To me it had an odd chemical taste to it, nothing like her quince paste. In fact, I think it's the almonds that let it down. Anyone that's had processed almond milk will know what I mean. Quince works well with fresh, roasted and honey almonds, but I'd describe it more as "Quince & Unripe Almond" if anything. Try it though, it'd work well with something to counter balance the almonds. Maggie suggests Amaretto and chocolate to compliment the quince but I'd try a glass of Muscat to contrast the almond, I really think it needs it.

Last but not least has to be the crowing glory of her range - Burnt Fig Jam with Honeycomb & Caramel. Heaven. I really don't have to say anything else here I don't think. Unless you want one of the others to match something else in a meal I'd just get this one. It's got everything going for it except pheasant and verjuice.

A list of stockists can be found at Maggie's website

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Fruit Mince Pie Ice Cream

While I was at David Jones picking up some Christmas prawns, I picked up some fruit mince pies to go into dessert for dinner with Dave and Gary on Christmas night. I spotted a nice sounding recipe in the first edition of Delicious my mum got me a subscription for. Some fruit mince pies and some good vanilla ice cream was all that was needed, but me being me I couldn't leave a good recipe alone so a quick batch of praline and some chopped up Lindt dark chocolate into the mix and there we have it. The best Christmas Ice Cream ever. The only thing that could have made it better would be some Reindeer Dust to make you fly.

No recipe as such, just a half dozen chopped up mince pies mixed in with some store bought vanilla ice cream, optionally, some praline and chocolate.

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