Boston Baked Beans

Baked beans are one of my comfort foods, always have been, always will be. I don’t know why it’s taken me so long to try out Maggie Beer’s version that appeared i one of the first episodes of The Cook and the Chef. Probably because I don’t tend to cook dried beans or pulses and I keep forgetting to pick up some speck. Luckily, one day visiting The Deli in Erskineville to get some ricotta to stuff some zucchini flowers and make some cannelloni I saw they had speck and I picked up some of that too.

Boston Baked Beans

Boston Baked Beans - Serves 2-4
250 grams of cannellini beans
1 teaspoon of mustard powder
2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons of maple syrup
1 tin of tomatoes
150 grams of pork speck
1 onion, roughly chopped
4 cloves
1 bay leaf, torn
Salt and pepper

Heat oven to 180ºC. Soak the beans overnight. In a large saucepan, fry the onion, speck, cloves and bay leaf until the onions are transparent. Add everything else except the beans and simmer for 10 minutes to reduce the liquid a little.

Drain the beans and add. Put a lid on the saucepan and bake for three hours, stirring occasionally. Serve.

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Zucchini Ribbon Pickles

Okay, this is the last zucchini recipe for a while, I promise. I’m out of zucchinis. I’m glad I made them though, it’s not a vegetable I usually cook with which is why the last few were all meant to be for this month’s Cook Sister! Waiter There’s Something In My... event, “for the love of gourd”.

Frankly, even though the other dishes tasted good they all looked pretty average in the pictures so with the one final zucchini I had left I dug around and found, via The Kitchn, a Martha Stewart recipe for zucchini ribbon pickles. I hadn’t made these things for years! Perfect. I scaled down the recipe quite drastically since I only had one zucchini left but here’s my take on it, scaled back up for you.

UPDATE: Jeanne has posted the roundup of this month’s theme. Thanks again Jeanne. I love Joanna from The Passionate Cook’s Courgette and Thyme Croustades with Parmesan Cream. Yummo.

Zucchini Ribbon Pickles

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Zucchini Cannelloni with Brie Stuffed Zucchini Flowers

With plenty of leftovers from last night’s dinner and some cannelloni tubes in the cupboard that I’ve been trying to find an excuse to use up for god knows how long (I’m sure I’ve moved house with them at least twice). Its a pretty straight-forward recipe, the hardest part is the béchamel, but if that’s a little much you can buy it from the fresh pasta section of your supermarket usually.

It also gave me a chance to break out the Multix piping bags I picked up ages ago. They worked a treat. If you don’t have use for a professional piping bag I’d highly recommend them even thought there are only 5 bags in a pack.

Ricotta and Zucchini Cannelloni with Brie Stuffed Zucchini Flowers
Ricotta and Zucchini Cannelloni with Brie Stuffed Zucchini Flowers

Ricotta and Zucchini Cannelloni with Brie Stuffed Zucchini Flowers - Serves 2
2 Zucchinis
250 grams of ricotta
Salt and Pepper
12 cannelloni tubes
1 tablespoon of butter
1 tablespoon of flower
1 cup of milk
1 teaspoon of nutmeg
20 grams of gorgonzola
50 grams of grated parmesan
½ cup of tomato based pasta sauce
100 grams of mozzarella
4 zucchini flowers
50 grams of brie
1 egg, beaten
½ cup of breadcrumbs
Sunflower oil for frying the zucchini flowers

Heat oven to 170ºC. Grate the zucchini and press out as much of the liquid as possible. Mix it in with the ricotta and add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into the piping bag and fill the cannelloni. Place into an oven tray that will hold them without too much extra space. I ended up using a bread tin.

In a saucepan, melt the butter until bubbling then add the flower. Whisk for about 10 minutes so that the gluten cooks and the flour doesn’t catch on the pan and burn. Slowly add the milk in about tablespoons until a paste forms. Add the remaining milk and whisk to smooth. Add the nutmeg and cheeses and stir until melted. Spread evenly over the cannelloni. Pour over the tomato pasta sauce and then grate the mozzarella over the top. Bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes until the cheese has browned. Take out and allow to cool slightly.

Heat the sunflower oil to 200ºC. Cut the brie into four cubes and stuff inside the zucchini flowers. Dip the flowers into the beaten egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Fry until golden and serve.

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Artichoke & Zucchini Flowers

I’ve never cooked raw artichokes before, I’ve always used marinated hearts so this was a bit of a learning experience. I always knew that they were quite wasteful, only a quarter or less of it is actually edible. You cant eat the stalk, all of the outer leaves and the centre is full of choke which is this fluff that has to be carefully scooped out before it’s cooked or eaten because it will make you choke (hence the name) So all you are left with are the bottom half of the inner leaves and with the centre missing. Not only that but it will go black almost as soon as you cut into it so you’ve got to stop the oxidation with either lemon juice or some acidulated water (a bit of vinegar in water). Going through all of that is almost not worth the effort if it wasn’t so tasty. Its sort of like eggplant but with a firm texture.

I made a couple of zucchini flowers to go with it. They were pretty nice but next time I’ll make a lighter batter or crumb them.

Stuffed Artichoke & Zucchini Flowers
Stuffed Artichoke & Zucchini Flowers

Stuffed Artichoke & Zucchini Flowers - Serves 2

Artichokes:
2 globe artichokes
¼ cup of vinegar
2 cups of cold water
1 cup of bread crumbs
2 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley
lemon zest from one lemon
2 anchovy filets
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon of olive oil

Zucchini Flowers:
4 zucchini flowers
1 tablespoon of ricotta
2 anchovy filets
Salt and pepper
1 cup of flour
¼ cup of ice water
Sunflower oil for frying

Pre-heat your oven to 160ºC. In a bowl, mix the vinegar and water and put aside.

Cut the stems of the artichokes, pull off the outer leaves until the softer inner leaves are visible and slice off the top half of the globe, just above the widest point. Dip the artichokes in the water to stop them from blackening. Open up the inner leaves of the artichoke and using a teaspoon, scoop out the fluffy choke, making sure you get all of it. Once done, put the artichoke back into the water until ready to bake.

Mash the anchovy filets and mix in the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Stuff the centre of the artichokes with the mix and press the remaining mix in between the leaves. Place on an oven try and bake for 45 min to an hour.

For the zucchini flowers, mix the anchovy and ricotta together and season with salt and pepper. Gently open the flower and stuff the cheese mix inside, being careful not to over fill it. The yellow/orange parts of the petals should be able to be twisted around the filling to close it in.

When the artichokes are ready, heat enough oil in a saucepan so that it will cover the flowers when they’re fried. Mix the flour and ice water together, dip a flower into the batter so it’s lightly covered then fry until just turning golden. Drain on paper towel and repeat with the other flowers. Serve immediately.

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Squid Tubes and Crumbed Scallops

Continuing with my love-affair with scallops, I decided to try crumbing and frying them. Brilliant stuff. To mix it up a bit I made some squid tubes too.
Squid Tubes and Crumbed Scallops

Squid Tubes and Crumbled Scallops - Serves 2
10 Scallops
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup of flour
¾ cup of breadcrumbs
1 squid tube
1 tablespoon of sumac
Sunflower oil for frying
Mustard, mayonnaise or tartar sauce to serve
Salad leaves


In three separate bowls, place the flour, egg and breadcrumbs. One at a time, roll a scallop in the flour then dip in the egg. Let the excess drip off then roll in the bread crumbs. Dip the crumbed scallop back in the egg then the breadcrumbs again. Set aside. Repeat for the remaining scallops.

For the squid, make incisions diagonally across the flesh being careful not to cut al the way through.

Fry the lot of it. The squid for 20 seconds and the scallops for about 45 seconds or until the crumbs are golden.

Serve on salad leaves with your choice of condiment.
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Roti Bread

Okay, I might be getting a little carried away with my new found ability to bake bread, but not wanting to risk a total failure, I decided to bake some bread, without the baking part. Pan or grill bread like roti, parathas (they are the round flaky ones), or even pancakes if you stretch the definition of bread, are some of the easiest and fool-proof types of bread around, simply because they are flat so they don’t have to rise and because they cook on a frying pan in 5 minutes or less there is hardly any time for them to fail in the first place. Given that though, any Indian grandmother out there reading this must be laughing at the picture because of how thick they are. If I’d kneaded the bread longer I’d have developed the gluten further and been able to roll them larger and thus thinner which is more traditional.

I’ve frozen all of mine, save the one or two I taste-tested. They’ll defrost quickly next time I whip up some indian.


Roti

Roti Bread - Makes 12
250mL of warm water
1 sachet of dry yeast
2 teaspoons of sugar
3 cups of flour
3 teaspoons of baking powder
½ teaspoon of salt
1½ tablespoons of oil

Mix two tablespoons of the water with the sugar and yeast and leave to get all frothy, about 10 minutes.

Knead the rest of the ingredients together well and let rise for an hour or until doubled in size. Cut into 12 pieces and roll into rounds.

Heat a non-stick frying pan to hot then spread with a little oil and fry one of the rounds of bread. It will start to bubble, press them down with a dry, folded tea towel and flip over and fry on the other side until golden. Repeat for the remaining bread. Best served hot.

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Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream

Something pretty simple I know, but with the aim of showing you all what I eat, and more importantly make myself I thought I’d share anyway. Sometimes I’ve found that just seeing something as simple as this really sparks the imagination and the taste buds so try this with either a single type of berry if you want it to compliment a particular meal.

Even better, it is very easy to make, can be made days in advance and you’ve probably got everything in the cupboard anyway.

Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream

Mixed Berry Jellies and Vanilla Ice Cream - Serves 4
1 packet of flavoured jelly crystals (any berry or even port-wine)
1 packet of frozen berries, thawed (any, or a mix)
Ice Cream

Make jelly as per packet instructions. Put in fridge and chill for an hour and a half or until the mix is quite thick but not set. Stir in berries.

If the berries do sink to the bottom before it sets, or you forget the jelly in the fridge before adding them place the moulds in a sink and add hot water until it comes half way up the sides. The jelly will soften enough so you can add the berries or stir them through again.

Leave to set then serve with ice cream.

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BBQ'd Piri-Piri Chicken

Here’s something that I’ve been meaning to make for a while, and thanks to SBS’s Food website, not only is the recipe but the original video from Maeve O’Meara’s exellent series, Food Safari.

I made all of the sauce, but only cooked half of the chicken since it was just me after all, a quarter for dinner and the other quarter for lunch the next day. Even though I have a charcoal BBQ, I don’t have a rotisserie so I just turned it once in a while with some corn and a sweet potato next to it. A little bit of bacon didn’t hurt either!

It’s damn tastier, and healthier than Oprorto and that’s saying something coming from me.

Piri-Piri Chicken
Charcoal chicken with piri piri sauce
1 whole chicken Marinade: 8 cloves garlic, crushed Pinch salt Juice of 2 lemons 1 tsp bay leaf powder 2 tsp paprika 2 shots scotch whisky (80mls) 2 tbsp very soft butter 1 whole chicken Rock salt Piri Piri Sauce: 10 – 12 birdseye chillies, chopped finely (medium size, medium heat) Pinch salt Juice of ½ lemon 100mls olive oil 2 tbsp garlic powder (not crushed garlic as the mixture will be too runny) Mix all ingredients into a thickish dipping sauce.


Mix all ingredients for marinade together. Prepare chicken – trim away excess fat. Then use a sharp knife or kitchen scissors to cut the chicken through the breastbone. Open out, turn over and flatten by pressing down with your hand along the backbone. Make a small cut under each wing to help it flatten further. Make several incisions in the flesh with a sharp knife. This will allow the flesh to absorb the marinade and allow fat to drain. Prick all over with a large fork. Brush both sides with the marinade and sprinkle with rock salt. Cover and marinate in the fridge for 30 – 45 minutes. Cook over a charcoal BBQ (or any hot grill if you don’t have a BBQ) turning frequently and basting continuously with the remaining marinade until both sides are golden brown – approximately 30 minutes. Cut the chicken into pieces with kitchen scissors and brush with Piri Piri sauce.

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Hey dude, wanna buy a fridge?

So I finally got around to listing my fridge on eBay. Please, please buy it so I can get a smaller one because I’m sick of having it in my dining room. :D

Auction ends on the 5th of November at 1900hrs AEDST

Fisher and Paykel 520L Fridge


My Fridge

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Walloon Biscuits

Following are brief excerpts of an email conversation of last night held between myself and a friend of mine after I’d baked turkish bread. Now, I know Luther quite well but I’m still not sure if he started out joking that I should make the Urban Dictionary’s version of Belgian Biscuits given his reference to them being made from real Belgians or the one he linked the recipe for but hey, I made the ones with pink icing. I only made a half batch and added the seeds from a vanilla pod as well. The cinnamon and vanilla add a nice level of complexity to the raspberry jam. The biscuits spread more in the oven than I’d expected too, they started out at about 4cm across and doubled in size. I’d make smaller ones if I were you.

From: Luther
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 10:48:49 PM
To: Will

This weekend's cooking challenge: Belgian biscuits. =P

From: Will
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 11:23:41 PM
To: Luther

Belgian biscuits?

From: Luther
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 24 October 2008 11:58:29 PM
To: Will

Made from real Belgians! (Mind you, at this rate they'll eventually be called Walloon biscuits... depending upon your knowledge of world affairs. =)

http://www.chelsea.co.nz/ViewRecipe.aspx?id=711

From: Will
Subject: Re: Something to sweeten your weekend?
Date: 25 October 2008 2:22:23 AM
To: Luther

I'll see what I can come up with :D

Belgian Biscuits
Belgian Biscuits

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Homemade Turkish Bread

I make my own bread every now and again but as yet you haven’t seen me write about any of it on The Red Whisk, quite simply because it’s always turned out crap. This one though, I can’t stop eating. It does take a while because it’s got three separate rises and I probably wouldn’t try this without a good mixer with a dough-hook. You can adjust the proportions of plain flour and whole-meal flour but I wouldn’t go more than 3:1.

The texture is beautifully chewy and has a well developed flavour too. Unfortunately it didn’t have those extra large air-bubbles inside you’d get from your store-bought turkish bread but I think if you left it long than I did you’d be fine, it was also a little cold when I baked mine and that never helps.

Homemade Turkish Bread
Homemade Turkish Bread

Homemade Turkish Bread - Makes 6

Sponge:
½ cup of warm water
1 sachet of yeast
1 teaspoon of sugar or honey
1 cup of flour

Dough:
1¼ cup of warm water
1 sachet of yeast
1 teaspoon of sugar or honey
2 tablespoons of olive oil
3 cups of flour
1 cup of whole-grain flour (I used rye)
1 tablespoon of salt
Sesame seeds or nigella seeds (black onion) for garnish
1 egg, beaten for a glaze

Mix the sponge ingredients, except the flour together and set aside until foamy, about 15 minutes. Add the flour and combine well. Cover with a tea-towel or loosely with plastic wrap and set aside overnight. Don’t cover the sponge tightly because the air inside with become anoxic and the yeast will die.

The following day, mix the second lot of yeast, water and honey/sugar together until foamy then add the remaining ingredients except the sesame seeds or nigella seeds and egg then knead until the dough is smooth and very elastic. Add more flour if the dough is too wet. It should be slightly damn but silky smooth. Mine took 20+ minutes.

Pre-heat your oven to 250ºC. Once the dough is the right consistency, ball up and place in an oiled bowl covered with a tea-towel or loosely with plastic wrap for 3+ hours or until the dough has doubled in size. Punch down the dough then kneed again for another 10 minutes or so. Divide into six pieces and roll out to the desired shape, quite thinly and put on a greased baking try and put in a warm place for an hour or more until the dough has risen significantly. Brush with an egg wash and sprinkle over the sesame or nigella seeds.

Bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes until the crush is golden.

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Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts

Every now and again you come across a word you think is a bit of an exaggeration, but then once you follow through with it you find out it’s an understatement. Really I should have picked it from the recipe but I had enough on my mind to really think it through. Five eggs, a bit of brandy, mascarpone, half a kilo of nuts and plenty of dark chocolate. Yeah. Rich. It was as much of a meal as the Spiced Lamb Pistachio and Beetroot Salad I actually had for dinner.

Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts
Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts

Rich Italian Chocolate Cake with Crushed Hazelnuts
250g hazelnuts
250g of almond meal
250g of dark chocolate, finely chopped
100mL of brandy
60mL of espresso
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons of milk
1 cup of caster sugar
5 large eggs, separated
1 tub of mascarpone

Heat the oven to 180ºC. Grease two 20cm sponge tins and dust with cocoa. Roast the hazelnuts on an oven tray for 15 minutes until the skins are blackened, wrap in a tea-towel and let them steam and cool. Rub off the skins then grind in a food processor.

Mix the first seven ingredients plus half of the sugar and the egg yolks in a large bowl until well combined. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl to soft peaks then slowly beat in the rest of the sugar until the egg whites are glossy. In several small batches, gently mix the egg whites into the cake mix. Divide the mix between the two sponge tins and bake in the middle shelf of the oven for 45min to an hour or until a skewer comes out clean, or with a few crumbs. Leave it to cool .

Spread the mascarpone on the top of one of the cakes then squish the second one on top, dusk with icing sugar and serve with either more mascarpone or some ice cream.


UPDATE: I gave the rest of this cake to some friends the following day and it tasted even better once the flavours had time to properly mingle with each other. So I’d recommend making the cakes, leaving them wrapped in plastic in the fridge for 24 hours and then spreading them with mascarpone and serving it with ice cream.

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Spiced Lamb Pistachio and Beetroot Salad with Orange Dressing

I’ve had plans to have a friend over for dinner tonight for a little while and I was racking my mind to find something to make and just couldn’t put my finger on it until fate stepped in and delivered the latest edition of Delicious magazine just as I was heading out the door. Step in Spiced Lamb with mint yoghurt and pistachio. I decided against the salad in the magazine, the cucumber and tomato salad with lemon and dijon dressing and decided to use the beetroot I had left in the fridge. Here’s my version.

Spiced Lamb with Pistachio and Beetroot Salad with Orange Dressing
Spiced Lamb with Pistachio and Beetroot Salad with Orange Dressing


The lamb itself was tender and cooked to just pink with a brilliant sumac based spice rub and the orange and honey in the dressing balanced out the beetroot. A bit of cumin in the dressing tied it in with the lamb and a bit of honey did the same for the yoghurt.

Spiced Lamb Pistachio - Serves 2
2 lamb back-straps
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons of olive oil
½ tablespoon of coriander seeds
1½ tabelspoon of cumin seeds
1½ tabelspoon of allspice
2 tabelspoon of sumac
¼ cup of shelled pistachios, crushed

Mint Yoghurt
½ cup of yoghurt
1 tabelspoon of finely sliced mint leaves
½ tabelspoon of honey

Beetroot Salad with Orange Dressing
1 beetroot, diced
1 potato, diced
½ cup of grated carrot
½ tabelspoon of fresh ground cumin seeds
1 teaspoon of orange zest
juice of 1 orange
½ tabelspoon of honey
2 handfuls of salad leaves

Starting with the beetroot salad; steam the beetroot for about an 30-45 minutes or until it’s fairly tender but still has a bit of resistance. Add the potato and carrot and continue to steam until all is tender and the tip of a knife has no resistance left to it. Toss through the salad leaves and put aside until serving. Mix the remaining salad ingredients into a bowl for the dressing.

For the mint yoghurt, mix it all together. Put aside until serving.

Lamb. Toss the lamb, garlic and oil together and stand to marinade for two hours. Grind and mix the spices together. Once the lamb has marinaded for the set time, rub the spice mix all over the meat and fry or bbq on medium-high for 5 minutes each side. Take the lamb off the heat and wrap in foil for 8-10 minutes to rest.

Dress and plate the salad. Slice the lamb back-strap on the diagonal and plate. Sprinkle with the pistachios and drizzle around the mint yoghurt.

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Roast Tomato and Risotto Soup

With last nights left over risotto I didn’t want to make the usual risotto cakes or arancini so I decided to mix it in to some soup made with the half dozen over-ripe tomatoes I had sitting in the fruit bowl. Usually, fairly light flavours are used here with a chicken soup base but with the saffron in the risotto I figured it could stand up against a stronger soup so I made my roast tomato recipe and went from there.


Roast Tomato and Saffron Risotto Soup
Roast Tomato and Saffron Risotto Soup

Roast Tomato and Risotto Soup - Serves 2
6 ripe tomatoes
1 onion
1 capsicum
2 bay leaves
6 sprigs of thyme
6 cloves of garlic
1 Tablespoon of olive oil
1 Liter of stock (I used rabbit)
2 cups of leftover risotto

Pre-heat your oven to 170ºC. Into a roasting pan, slice the tomatoes and capsicum in half and the onion in quarters. Add the herbs and spices and a dash of olive oil and toss them all together to coat. Roast in the oven for about an hour or until the tomatoes have dried and started to caramelize.

In a saucepan, heat the stock to boiling and add in the roasted vegetables (remove the bay leaves). Heat the roasting tin over the stove and when it’s started to simmer, splash in some of the stock and deglaze the pan. Scrape up all of the juicy bits and add them into the pot with the stock. Simmer for 10 minutes then whizz up with a stick mixer or a blender until it’s a little your preferred texture (I like mine thick, thin out with more stock if you want.

EIther, re-heat the risotto in a frying pan and spoon into your soup bowl and pour around the risotto, or add the risotto to the soup and mix through to re-heat before serving.

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Saffron and Pea Risotto with Pancetta Scallops

I had a craving for rice over the past few days for some reason so with a quick(ish) stop at David Jones Food Hall I picked up some saffron, fish stock and some scallops. I had to make a second stop on the way home to find the fresh peas.

I’ve made saffron risotto a couple of times before but I’ve never been satisfied with the yellowness of the end result. In magazines and on TV it’s always almost fluorescent yellow but today it seemed to come out just about right. I guess I used twice as much saffron as usual and let it steep into the stock before I cooked it into the rice.

Fresh Pea and Saffron Risotto with Scallops cooked with Pancetta
Fresh Pea and Saffron Risotto with Scallops cooked with Pancetta

Saffron and Pea Risotto with Pancetta Scallops - Serves 2
2 liters of fish stock (or vegetable)
1 teaspoon of saffron threads
½ white onion, diced
1 Tablespoon of butter
1 cup of arborio rice
½ cup of fresh peas
2 rashers of pancetta (or bacon)
10 scallops (or prawns, lobster etc)

Bring the stock and saffron threads to simmering point. Fry the onion in the butter until it’s translucent and add the rice. Fry until the rice has turned white and one ladle at a time add the stock and stir until the stock has been absorbed. Continue until ¾ of the stock has been used and the rice has begun to soften.

In a separate pan, fry the pancetta until crisp and the fat has rendered, do not discard the fat from the pan. Dice the pancetta and add that along with the peas into the risotto. Continue adding the stock until the risotto is cooked through.

In the same pan as the pancetta was fried, add the scallops and fry for one minute each side or until the surface is caramelized and the flesh has turned opaque.

Pile the risotto on a plate and scatter with the scallops, or if you’re feeling a little wanky, shape the risotto in a ring then arrange the scallops around the edge.

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Chickens with Pockets

Have you ever had one of those moments when you’ve heard a new word two or three times in a week then find yourself using it? Somehow, the arse that hosts Ready Steady Cook taught me the word ‘paupiette’ which is a piece of meat with a pocket sliced into it and then stuffed prior to cooking. I’ve made similar things many times before but I never realised that was a word for it.

So when I had some bacon, camembert and a chicken breast handy a chicken paupiette was called forth.

Chicken Paupiette of Bacon and Camembert
Chicken Paupiette of Bacon and Camembert

Chicken stuffed with Bacon and Camembert - Serves 2
2 Chicken breasts
4 Rashers of bacon
250g of Camembert, sliced
Salad leaves to serve

Slice a pocket into the thickest parts of the chicken breasts trying to make each pocket as big as possible but not to cutting through to the other side. Lightly hammer out the chicken to as thin as possible without breaking apart the chicken.

Stuff the pocket with half of the cheese and a rasher of bacon then slowly pan fry until the chicken is cooked through and browned on the outside along side the two spare rashers of bacon.

Slice the chicken in half and lay over salad leaves with the extra pieces of bacon.

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Wok-it like its hot!

Recently, I received an email from a close friend asking for a bit of advice on some kitchen tools. Here’s the core of the email, slightly edited for relevance and for anonymity:


[From: GS - 11 October 2008 9:09:10 AM

Hi Will,

I had a couple of foodie questions I thought you might be able to help me with.
 
The first is slightly embarrassing. With the weather warming my thoughts turn to my annual summer menu trauma. I’m very much a hot food winter cook.
 
I’m thinking this year I might try to do more stir-fries through summer, but EVERY time I cook a stir fry the place completely fills with smoke. The meal’s OK, but the smoke lingers here for hours. I figure I’m doing something wrong, but want someone to perhaps witness my mistakes (hence the discomfort) and let me know what I’m doing wrong.
 
Onto more fun things, I’m wondering if you’ve ever seen a home nut-roasting setup?
 
I roast nuts on a weekly basis (even if it’s just a packet of pine nuts) and I’ve been thinking for some time of building (if I can’t buy) a setup designed to roast nuts. I’ve taken inspiration from the chocolate-coating machines at Haighs that resemble concrete mixers! I think a metal vessel (like a small mulk-frothing jug) rotating off axis with a hair drier (or “heatshrink gun” – similar to hair drier but DANGEROUSLY hot) stuffed into the opening is probably going to do the job nicely, and on the sort of scale I require.
 
But the overpriced
eBay jobbies are an interesting approach. Or just the drum on its own.) What do you think. Had any ideas, or seen devices that are designed to do that job?

G.]


Happy to try and help you out with your foodie questions if I can.

As far as your stir-fry problems are concerned: Yes you can have the heat too high. The temps are important for stir-fries, when you add meat or veg to a wok it lowers the temp and releases water. If the temp is too low, the vegetables, meat etc will stew in their own juices instead of searing and sealing which is the point of stir-fry. Too high a temp and your oil will start to burn causing smoke and flavour changes in the food; or you know, a fire. 

Who ever it was that said to cook things like steak and stir-fry at the highest possible temp probably said it when domestic stoves couldn't get above 200ºC (can we blame Bernard King?). Your stove is a bit more than standard domestic so yes, it could be getting too hot. 

Sounds like you're using a fairly neutral tasting oil because the smoke isn't affecting the taste of the food, just your ability to see it. There's a Table of Smoke Points at Cooking for Engineers that will give you an idea of what oil can do what. Stay clear of oils with a flavour to them because if they do burn, you'll taste it in the food. If you want the flavour cheat and drizzle a little bit over once it's cooked. 

You can use a low temp oil for stir-frying, the catch is that your wok will be have a lower maximum temp due to the oil so you will have less of a range to cook in. Each time you add something it will lower the temp for a while and take longer for the released water to evaporate so it’s fine if you're cooking small amounts but otherwise you might need to cook each ingredient type in batches so they don't stew until everything is cooked. At that point you can add everything in together to warm  through. If you use a higher temp oil your wok can be hotter so there is a bigger range to drop in temp before it's too cold so you can add more stuff at a time.

Your nuts:
The overpriced internet jobbies are just coffee roasters with the word coffee scratched out and replaced with a 20% premium which is hard to do on something that's already as marked-up as coffee.

I'm sure there are others, but a 2 minute google search came up with Sweet Marias, that have a variety to choose from and what seems to be cheap compared to the ebay one you sent me.

If you want to make your own, you might want to have a look at this design for the UglyRoast

OR; also from Make, but in the physical magazine I've got here are the instructions for a more McGyver esq coffee roaster made from a metal sieve locked into the head of a cordless screwdriver which together are mounted at 45º  to a small camp stove so that the sieve is above the flame. Toss in a cup of coffee beans (or nuts), light the stove, turn on the drill and the sieve rotates al la haighs drum.
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An Adventure on the Korean Peninsula

Someone who knows exactly who he is recently formally introduced me to Korean food. Given the [positive and negative] association of Korea with China and Japan there are some obvious similarities with each regions cuisine. The fundamentals of Korean cooking seem to be relative simplicity and common ingredients, being garlic, ginger, pepper, various onions, soy and sesame seeds and oil with relatively few spices and herbs being to be used. For tonight’s exploration into Korean cooking I picked what seemed to me to be two basic Korean dishes, Dak Busut Jim, or Braised Chicken and Mushrooms, and as a side Oyi Namul, or Cucumber Salad.

Dak Busut Jim (Braised Chicken and Mushrooms) and Oyi Namul (Cucumber Salad)
Dak Busut Jim (Braised Chicken and Mushrooms) and Oyi Namul (Cucumber Salad)

Every meal is served with rice and one or more small side dishes that can be used to add variety to the taste and texture of the main course, especially the ubiquitous kimchi which is style of pickling vegetables that includes a fermentation process and usually starts with a base of cabbage. As you’d expect for a national dish, every region and every grandmother has their own recipe. If you can’t wait the several weeks it takes to make, good asian supermarkets sell fresh kimchi in the chilled foods section. If you can only find the commercial version in a jar, you might want to skip it unless someone can recommend one to me?

Unlike Japanese food that tends to take 1 teaspoon of a dozen ingredients that you’ll never use again and are only sold by the kilo, the only thing I was missing from my cupboard for tonight’s meal were bamboo shoots that you can pick fresh at good asian supermarkets or either canned and vacuum packed, all for around $1.

The braised chicken and mushroom was great with the black pepper being the surprise front runner and the chinese mushrooms giving a good mix in texture. The cucumber salad had a nice refreshing but not overpowering sourness that was needed against the strong flavours of the chicken, but with some cayenne pepper, keeping a spicy note.


Dak Busut Jim - Serves 4-6
(Braised chicken and mushrooms)


10 dried mushrooms
1 x 1kg chicken
3 Tablespoon light soy
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper of chili powder
½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 white onion, in 8th and layers separated
125g bamboo shoots, sliced thinly
4 spring onions, sliced, including greens
2 Tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Cooked white rice to serve

Soak mushrooms in boiling water for 30 minutes then remove stalks, slice and return to soaking water.
Cut chicken into joints then into small bite sized pieces, including the bones, place in a bowl. Add in the soy, sesame oil, garlic, cayenne and black pepper. Mix together and marinade for 30 minutes.

In a wok, add the drained chicken (keep the marinade) and fry until brown. Add the mushrooms, the soaking liquid and the reserved chicken marinade. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds.


Oyi Namul - Serves 6
(Cucumber Salad)

2 large green cucumbers
3 teaspoons coarse salt
1 Cup of water
2 Tablespoons mild vinegar (eg: rice)
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 clove garlic, minced
1 spring onion, sliced
3 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds

Peel (if desired) and as thinly as possible, slice the cucumber and put into a bowl with the salt and water. Let stand for 15 minutes. Drain off all of the water then add all of the remaining ingredients, combine well and serve chilled.

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No salmon for you! @ Varga Bar

I said I’d go back to Varga Bar to try their food menu and today was the day, or at least I thought it was. It was time for brunch, around 1030, 11 and I wanted a bit of breakfast, salmon eggs benedict to be exact but they were out of smoked salmon. Okay fine, I’ll just have ham. Sorry, out of that too? Not to worry, I can understand how difficult it is to find either of those two things in Newtown. The Deli is all of 2 minutes walk away, not to mention all of the other delicatessens and heck, even the IGA on King Street has both.

I ended up with a sandwich. Luckily it was tasty but given it was a bacon sandwich ($10), a little light on the bacon.

Bacon, Avocado, Tomato and Lettuce on Sourdough @ Varga Bar
Bacon, Avocado, Tomato and Lettuce on Sourdough @ Varga Bar

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White Degustation and the Hilton Auckland

I had to go back to Sydney early from my New Zealand trip so I can sit an exam and since I hadn’t had any luck finding the quite space I needed to read the text books I’d lugged around with me thus far I booked myself two days in Harbour View room at the Hilton Auckland (I got a good deal at wotif). The hotel itself is smaller than I thought and felt cramped every time I walked through the lobby but the rest of the hotel is quite spacious. The room I was in had a very large marble bathroom with separate bath and shower, the rest of the room contained a king size bed, 32” LCD TV and DVD player and a desk. Then there was the balcony - the same size as the room itself! The only complaint with it is that even though there are double sliding doors opening on to it, there was a concrete pillar in the middle of them making getting outside a little awkward and blocked the view from inside.

Nasi Goreng @ Hilton Auckland
I hadn’t had breakfast that morning so once I settled into the room, opened all the draws and flicked all the light switches I had a look at the room service menu. There was all of the standard fare you get at the Hilton plus the specialised items from the hotels restaurant. I ordered the Nasi Goreng, just a light meal. Presented well, the rice moulded in a bowl and turned out into the plate with a fried egg across the top, tomato and cucumber slices fanned around the edge and individual bowls of chili paste, soy and dried fish so they could all be added to taste, a single large prawn cracker and three small chicken satay skewers to the side. Flavour wise it was more subtle than I’m used to, all of the flavours were balanced so it was a clearly deliberate choice and it certainly wasn’t bland per se but I could see a lot of people thinking it was.

The second night I stayed I went to White, the hotel’s restaurant with Italian chef Cristiano De Martin running the show. You can see his European training and years of dedicated practice in the way every dish was executed, starting with the produce then preparation and cooking then finally the presentation. De Martin’s dedication to his food extends to joint venture called Homegrown with NZ primary producers to source the best ingredients. I can’t see any losers here, especially as I get presented with my first course.

Starting off with Heart of the Desert saffron infused carrot soup with parsley foam it’s not surprising De Martin highlights one of his Homegrown partners in Heart of the Desert saffron. Who knew that NZ can grow it given 90% of the world production is from Iran? The soup itself was good blending the more complex earthier kiwi saffron standing up against fresh sweet carrots. The parsley foam was wispy and delicate adding a level of texture and evening out the parsley flavour so that no mouthful could ever be overpowed with a herb than can taste like grass if you get a mouthful of it unexpectedly.

Contrasting the soup’s delicate flavour profile is the Northland kingfish carpaccio, spiced shallots with citrus and sesame dressing and mini coriander leaves hitting you with an incredible burst starting out with the lime that is made palatable with the shallots, coriander and sesame on the finish. Without any one of these the dish wouldn’t balance but here all of the flavours are inline leaving you with the amazingly fresh kingfish carpaccio. The mouthfeel of the slightly oily kingfish sliced paper thin and served raw as it melds itself with the rest of the flavours creating one of those moments you sit up and pay attention to what you’re eating.

I love duck and I eat it quite often but until now I hadn’t actually had the chance to make or try tea smoked duck. I made tea smoked snapper a few weeks ago as a trial before I give it ago on duck. Now I’ve got a gold standard to aim for. A salad of tea smoked duck resting on crisp filo pastry, pistachio, celery and grapes with a blueberry and riesling verjus dressing was a familiar yet different taste. Smoking the duck adds a soft undertone to each bite that while you can tell it is there, at no point does it distract you from the duck itself or any other ingredient. Pistachio as a nut has an odd flavour that wouldn’t have worked if the duck wasn’t smoked. A lesser chef would have either used hazelnut that I think would have enhanced the smoke and overpowered the rest of the salad or blanched almods simply for texture. The filo pastry was disappointing, it seemed more like a layer of cardboard where I was expecting the salad to be perched on top of individual layers of delicate filo. Did you notice something missing in the picture? When I was served the dish I thought it was odd but there isn’t a black/purple drizzle across the top. I’m not sure how they did it, but blueberry skin wasn’t in the ingredient list for the dressing so it’s is perfectly clear. The two black half circles are grapes.

Scallops are tender pillows of shellfish that have a sweeter meat than crayfish. Their intense flavour, despite that they’re physically delicate, means they can carry other strong flavours and De Martin picked almost a surf and turf with Spirits Bay scallops seared with crispy pancetta, apple pureé and a snow pea salad with cabernet sauvignon vinegar glaze. Even before the plate lands you can smell the pancetta and the bacon instinct kicks in and your nose is in the air trying to breathe it all in. The pancetta releases so much of it’s flavour as it’s friend in the pan next to the scallops that they seem to soak it up like a sponge. The drizzle of glaze on the plate was incredibly intense and perfect for cutting through the pancetta’s fat so you can reclaim the scallop’s individuality.

The Assistant Manager (who did an amazing job all night) disagreed with the chef on his choice of wine for a number of dishes and I either saw her point or agreed completely. This time I only saw her point. She gave me some of the listed wine, a Cloudy Bay ‘08 Sauvignon Blanc, and the wine she thought was best, a Brancott ‘07 Sauvignon Blanc, both from the Malborough. I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t have said either were a perfect match b