Crispy Skinned Orange Duck al la Kylie Kwong

Ever since I first went to Billy Kwong’s a few years ago for a birthday dinner (thanks again Tony) I’ve been in love with Kylie’s crispy skinned duck in blood plum sauce and I’ve been trying to get around to making it for myself ever since and this weekend came the opportunity.

It was a bit of a nightmare getting to make this, I went to eight different places to find a whole duck and twice as many to find either blood plums or blood oranges. I ended up settling for standard oranges and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening wondering if the dish would still retain it’s quintessential tastiness. Luck won with a not as sweet, but with a nice piquancy the original blood plums didn’t have.


Orange Crispy Skinned Duck
Orange Crispy Skinned Duck


Crispy Skinned Orange Duck - Serves 2
1 whole duck, approx. 1.5kg
1 tablespoons of sichuan pepper
3 tablespoons of sea salt
¼ cup plain flour
vegetable oil for frying
1 cup of water
1 cup of white sugar
250 grams of oranges, juiced (or blood plums)
⅔ cups of fish sauce
6 whole star anise
2 cinnamon quills
⅓ cups of lime juice

Trim away the excess fat from the cavity of the duck. Grind the sichuan pepper and salt together and then rub all over the duck. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Boil some water in a wok or large saucepan and place a steamer basket over, the duck inside, cover and leave for an hour and a half. Take the now cooked duck out and leave it to cool.

Once the duck is cold enough to handle, slice it in half lengthwise, from neck to tail. Gently pry the carcass out, leaving the drumstick and wings intact. Cut each half into half again so you have a wing and a leg piece.

To make the sauce, mix the water, sugar, oranges together and bring to the boil in a saucepan, reduce the heat to a simmer and add the fish sauce, star anise, cinnamon and lime juice. Simmer while you fry the duck.

Heat the vegetable oil a wok or deep saucepan, cover the duck pieces with flour and deep fry each piece separately until the skin has gone a crisp golden colour. Drain the pieces after they’ve cooked on paper towel. When their all cooked, cut the duck down into bite-sized pieces, except for the bones.

Pile the duck on a serving platter and pour over enough sauce to coat the duck.

Eat it with your hands and have a bowl of rice on the side.

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His Name Was Robert Paulson

Only in death will the members of Flight Club have a name. His name was Robert Paulson.

Jack (Ed Norton) and Bob (Meat Loaf) at support group in Fight Club
Jack (Ed Norton) and Bob (Meat Loaf) at support group in Fight Club


I was considering calling this post “My Meatloaf has Bitch Tits” but that doesn’t really portray the damn fine tasty meatloaf that I made tonight. I know it’s a bit of a tenuous link but Meat Loaf played the character Robert Paulson, the guy with bitch tits that Jack meets at his testicular cancer support group... With torn off pieces of fresh buffalo mozzarella and sun-dried tomato this meatloaf really is a notch above what you’ve probably ever considered a meatloaf could be.

The original recipe for this meatloaf comes from Mario Batali’s father (via Epicurious), which might explain Mario’s own bitch tits. The entire loaf, if made as directed weighs in at 2-3 kg! I intended to make half of this but I wasn’t paying attention when I went to buy the ingredients and bought enough to make the full recipe, luckily meatloaf can be frozen well. Sort of like Meat Loaf’s assets. I cheated a little in this recipe, David Jones had some great looking beef rissoles that had onion, carrot, parsley and a few other bits already mixed through in what looked about the right proportion so I bought that instead of just plain minced beef. For a little more vegetable matter in a meal that will be almost entirely meat I made some balsamic roast vegetables to go along side - just baby carrots, red onion, parsnip etc tossed with some olive oil and a splash of balsamic and roasted along side the meatloaf for the last half hour.

Beef and Italian Sausage Meatloaf with Sundried Tomatoes and Mozarella
Beef and Italian Sausage Meatloaf with Sundried Tomatoes and Mozarella

Beef and Sausage Meatloaf - Serves 8 or more
1kg of lean beef mince
500g of buffalo mozzarella, torn into pieces
500g of italian sausage, cases removed
2 cups of chopped fresh basil
2 cups of fresh breadcrumbs
1 medium onion, chopped
1 cup of sliced sun-dried tomatoes
5 garlic cloves
1½ tablespoons of dried oregano
2 teaspoons of salt
2 × ½ cup of tomato sauce
3 eggs
½ cup of dry red wine

Pre-heat your oven to 190ºC. Thoroughly mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl except one of the half cups of tomato sauce. Mould into a loaf shape and place in a loaf tin and even out the surface. Brush on the remaining tomato sauce. Bake in the oven for about an hour and fifteen minutes or until a meat thermometer reaches 70-75ºC at the centre of the loaf.

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The Duke was Shot in the Back

In 1867 His Royal Highness Alfred the Duke of Edinburgh was shot in the back while on a picnic in Contarf, which is probably why a pub named after him was built miles away in Enmore in 1876. Well, actually it probably had a bit more to do with the near-by Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, which was built with memorial funds after his assasination attempt (the hospital, not the pub). A little ironic building a hospital since the guy that shot him was hung.

Affie, as he was known by his family was so called because he was affable, easy to talk to and that sense really has been instilled at The Duke. Given it’s prime location meters away from the Enmore Theatre everyone comes here for a beer and a meal before a show ( The Presets drew me here Monday night). If you’re planning on eating get here early because the place fills up fast. On freezing cold nights like last night, the roaring open fire helps too!

I’ve been here a few times, and the place isn’t cheap but the food is good and usually pretty high quality with some very generous servings. I had the mixed grill this time around, sausages, minute steak, bacon and lamb cutlets on chips with sauce of your choice, pepper, mushroom etc, all for the princley sum (get it?) of $17.50. It is just pub food here, steaks, burgers and the good old chicken parma that a friend had, looking equally as delicious and priced.


Mixed Grill @ The Duke, Enmore
Mixed Grill @ The Duke, Enmore

Food, 7/10 - Better than most pubs and everything you’d expect on a classic pub menu board
Service, 8/10 - For a pub, you can’t complain - they were happy and friendly
Coffee, 10/10 - Because it was made with hopps and barley and served by the pint
Value, 7/10 - Tough one, but for the location and the generous servings it gets a couple extra points
Location, 9/10 - If you’re going to the Enmore it’s ideal

The Duke of Edinburgh
148 Enmore Road, Enmore NSW 2042
P: 02 9519 1935
F: 02 9557 1381
W: http://www.duke-hotel.com/







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Beef and Broccoli Satay

Tonight when I had a friend coming over for dinner and not really knowing what to cook I thought I’d give one of my newer cookbooks the test. 3 Ways With Stale Bread by Ross Dobson is an interesting concept, picking out all of those ingredients that sit in a cupboard for ages never being used because they were surplus of something else you’ve made be it some lentils, frozen berries or peantus as I used here with a peanut curry as a way to use up the jar of red curry paste, peanuts, coconut cream and pretty much everything else in this recipe except the thai basil and the rump steak. I would have looked into those cupboards for hours trying to figure out what to do with each one of these. In the end, I still had to adjust a few things because I couldn’t find any thai basil at the grocer but what the hey.

The book itself is split between things you’ll find in the cupboard, fridge or freezer and is really well cross referenced eg: “Peanuts also used in recipes on pages, 18, 21, 36...”.

The curry, which I renamed a satay wasn’t bad but it could have used a bit of fresh lime juice over the top to give it the salty/sweet/sour flavour combination that thai cooking is famous for.

Beef and Broccoli Satay
Beef and Broccoli Satay

Beef and Broccoli Satay - Serves 2
500g Rump Steak, cut into strips across the grain
2 tablespoons of red curry paste
2 tablespoons of peanut butter
½ peanuts
1 tin of coconut milk (or cream thinned with water)
1 cup of broccoli foretts
1 cup of sliced red capsicum
1 lime cut into wedges
2 cups of cooked jasmine rice to serve
corriander to garnish (optional)

In a very hot wok, fry the beef in batches until it’s brown all over and set it aside.

Add the red curry paste to the wok and fry for a minute until it becomes fragrant. Keep stiring it or else it’ll burn. Add the peanut butter, peanuts and the coconut milk and simmer until the sauce has reduced by half. Add the broccoli and capsicum and simmer until tender. Mix the beef back in and simmer for a minute until the beef is hot again.

Serve over rice and with a wedge of lime on the side to help cut through the thickness of the sauce and to give it a bit of an extra tang.

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Duck with Roast Fennel and Berry Sauce

After going to Bills today I headed across the street to Hudson Meats for some inspriation for dinner and came out with a pair of duck marylands. I didn’t really have any idea what to do with them but I managed to throw something together with what was in the fridge. Next time, I’ll strain the berry sauce - the raspberry pips hurt.

Duck with Roast Fennel and Berry Sauce
Duck with Roast Fennel and Berry Sauce

Duck with Roast Fennel and Berry Sauce - Serves 2
2 duck marylands
2 sprigs of rosemary
1 tablespoon of salt
1 fennel bulb
1 zucchini
1 tablespoon of olive oil
Salt and Pepper
¼ cup of frozen berries

In a mortar and pestle grind the salt and rosemary until they’re mixed well. Coat the duck marylands well and leave to sit lightly covered with plastic wrap until it’s ready to cook.

Pre-heat the oven to 160ºC. Slice the zucchini in half and the fennel into 5mm slices. Drizzel with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and spread out on a roasting tray and roast in the oven until the fennel is soft.

After the fennel has been in the oven for about 30 minutes, add a little olive oil to a frying pan at medium heat. Add the duck skin side down and fry until golden, turn over and fry until the other side is golden. Finish the duck in the frying pan in the oven for 15 minutes.

Take the duck out of the oven and rest. While the duck is resting, add the berries to the frying pan and simmer until reduced. Strain out any pips. Put the veggies on the plate, then the duck and spoon over the berry sauce.

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Bills Chicken Club Sammich

Bill Granger is someone I would aspire to be like, studying art and working as a waiter he discovered and grew his passion for food and now he’s gotten pretty well rich doing something he loves, with out selling out.

IMG_3313
Bills - 359 Crown Street, Surry Hills

Bills second restaurant in Surry Hills opened 12 years ago and has been going strong ever since, full to the brim from opening till the end of brunch, easing off through the day and picking up again for dinner. It’s a great place to come despite it’s incredibly short menu, one of the shortest in Sydney with usually ony a dozen items to choose from, most of which are staples that are always there such as the sweetcorn fritters with guacamole and the chicken club sandwich, which is what I had today. Now this isn’t your typical three tier sandwich, it’s a chibata roll with roast tomato, baked chicken thigh, roquett and a light spread of dijonaise. It is delicious, but for $17.50 you’d want it to be. Don’t count on the coffee, it’s always just a little burnt.

IMG_3311
Club Sandwich and Herbed Fries - Bills, 359 Crown Street, Surry HIlls


If you’re after better coffee and cheaper sweet corn fritters (also $17.50) try Lemon Twist a little further south on Crown Street.


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Roast Pork Loin with Dried Fruit

Tonight was meant to be catching up with a couple of friends for dinner, Adam, Neil and Matt but Matt couldn’t make it. There’s a funny story about Matt. Stoned at a party at Neil’s house people were throwing out some crappy dance moves and talking about some crappy music like The Salmon Dance. Matt pipes up “What’s a salmon?” with the reply being called out, it’s a fish. Funny stuff if you were there - or stoned. Now if Adam wasn’t allergic to fish, we’d be having salmon. So, to keep a theme, we’re having pork because Adam thinks I’m a man-whore.

Roast Pork Loin with Dried Fruit
Roast Pork Loin with Dried Fruit

Roast Pork Loin with Dried Fruit - Serves 4-6
1kg pork loin
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large shallots, chopped
¾ cup diced dried apples
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup dried mixed berries
¼ cup dried wild figs
1½ cups low-salt chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine


Preheat oven to 220°C. Sprinkle pork with rosemary, salt, and pepper.
Place pork in the oven and roast for 20 minutes. Lower the temprature to 170ºC and continue to roast until thermometer inserted into center registers 65°C to 75°C, about another 35-45 minutes. Transfer pork to platter; let stand 10 minutes.
Add apples, figs, cranberries and berries to the pan with the wine and stock.; stir until fruit mixture is heated through, boil 1 minute, lower the heat, cover and simmer. If thicker sauce is desired, boil until reduced enough to coat spoon. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Slice pork and spoon sauce over.

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Corelli Sure Liked His Waffles

This Saturday after pulling a monster of a 21 hour shift at work (hope you’re enjoying the Commonwealth Bank’s new phone banking system by the way) I woke up with a couple hours sleep and went to enjoy some pleasant company and to staid my sleep-deprived cravings for fat and sugar. John and I agreed to meet at Corelli’s, a café just south of Newtown Station on the King Street side. He’s mentioned it once or twice as we’ve walked past together and it seemed like a perfect opportunity to see what all the fuss was about. Turns out, there was a bit of justification for it.

Corelli's Café - 352 King Street, Newtown
Corelli's Café - 352 King Street, Newtown

Being the heart of Newtown it manages to still have that feel of Bohemia about it, which is odd because Arcangelo Corelli was Italian not Slavic; nor was he gypsy. In fact he was long dead before the French even coined the phrase. The point though, is that Corelli’s has that aire of real Newtown about it with it’s cramped tables, mismatched paintwork and staff that will get around to taking your order when they’ve stopped day-dreaming as they watch the foot traffic.

As for the food, the menu seemed skewed towards breakfast, proven by dinner there tonight with my pick of the menu being the bangers and mash (not too bad but simple as it should be). For that breakfast though John had the generously portioned eggs benedict with an obviously
not store-bought hollandaise sauce. You could tell it was made with fresh egg and lemon.

IMG_3219
Eggs Benedict @ Corelli's Newtown

To satisfy the need for sugar and fat though I couldn’t turn up the made-to-order Belgian waffles with strawberry and rhubarb compote, maple syrup and fresh cream. Good lord it hit the spot — then stomped around on it for a while. The waffles themselves were light and fluffy with just enough sugary-caramelised crispiness, balanced with the sweet and tart compote and the lusciousness of the cream. I think John’s arse clenched when he tasted some! Are you reading this John? :P

Waffles with Rubarb and Strawberry Compote @ Corelli's Newtown
Waffles with Rhubarb and Strawberry Compote @ Corelli's Newtown

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WTF is a Fricassee?

A while back I decided to start a weekly series call What The Fuck Wednesday, and here’s the second entry. A fricassee is a French term and dish that means ‘meat stewed in gravy’. It’s a surprisingly versatile type of dish, being used as a side or a main course and can have pretty much anything you want in it - it’s a great refrigerator meal, just throw in what ever you’ve got laying around. If you’re serving it as a main in itself, depending on what you’ve put in it - try serving it with soft polenta, hard polenta, crusty bread, rice or cous cous. Something to soak up the sauce basically. Even the ‘gravy’ can be flexible like the one I’ve made tonight.

Roast Chicken and Winter Vegetable Fricassee
Roast Chicken and Winter Vegetable Fricassee

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The ironing is delicious

I guess the irony can't be lost that I'm sitting on a train at 9am (when I'm meant to be at work) and this being the first time I've had a chance to write a post about a croissant I had for breakfast a couple of weeks ago when I missed even the 9am train. It had to be one of the sorriest excuses of a ham and cheese croissant that I've ever had the pleasure of eating. The outside was nice and golden crispy but the ham and cheese on the inside were both quite cold with out even the slightest signs of being melted. The coffee was just as good. Surprisingly they do still have a small queue for the take-away window every morning but I guess when Café Acoustica is the only place you can get a coffee within a 5 minute walk within any direction of the train station then you've pretty much got the bad coffee market cornered.

Missed Train Croissant. Cold, unmleted cheese. Damn.
Missed Train Croissant. Cold, unmleted cheese. Damn.

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Scoozi, la prima colazione?

Today is the Queen’s Birthday public holiday in Australia (except WA) and I bet she had a lavish breakfast in bed served on a silver tea tray with delicatley poached eggs, toast soliders and a pot of tea to celebrate.

This little black duck though had to walk for hours around the centre of Adelaide CBD to find somewhere that was open and serving breakfast.

Scoozi - Big Breakfast
Scoozi - Big Breakfast

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Pearl Barley and Mushroom Ham Soup

Luckily, days before I had a diabetic friend over the fag and the hag the cook and the chef had an episode dedicated to diabetic recipes. They did make a really good point in that a diabetic diet is really the way everyone should be eating, low fat, low cal and low in sugar. I decided to make their Pearl Barley and Mushroom Soup. I added a couple of ham bones to give it a great meaty quality and removed any reason to add any salt. I've never had a barley soup before but damn it was nice. Even the ass that I call a best friend said it was good.

UPDATE: This soup freezes very well, after two months frozen solid it was brilliant and the barley still had a great texture, as good as when it was first made.

Pearl Barley and Mushroom Ham Soup
Pearl Barley and Mushroom Ham Soup

Pearl Barley and Mushroom Ham Soup
Serves 4-8 depending on how much stock you add

250g pearl barley
40g butter or 2T of olive oil
200g onion, diced
3 cloves garlic
2 sprigs rosemary
3 springs thyme
3 dried porcini mushrooms (or dried chinese mushrooms)
100g shiitake mushrooms
200g swiss brown mushrooms
2 large ham bones (optional)

Boil the barley and ham bones in 1½L of water for an hour. While that's on the go, chop everything else and fry the onion and garlic until it's translucent then add the rest. When the barley is soft take out the ham bones and chop off any left over meat. Add that and the mushrooms into the pot with the stock and bring it all back to the boil.

Season if needed and serve with some toasted sourdough.

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Olivada Roast Chicken with Thyme Roasted Vegetables

I've roasted a chicken for TRW before but when I offered the chance to make a home cooked meal for someone I figured that I should probably make a classic, or something resembling one so I searched epicurious and came up with Olivada Roast Chicken. This version or a roast chook has an olivada (which is very similar to a tapenade and would make a great dip or spread) slipped under the skin of the chicken after you've given it a reach around and separated the skin from the flesh. If you're at all squeamish or have just watched any movie by Ridley Scott you might not want to do this on an empty stomach. Please note that this is not the same hollow feeling you get after watching anything by Michael Bay.

Olivada Roast Chicken
Olivada Roast Chicken


Olivada Roast Chicken with Thyme Roast Vegetables - Serves 4-6

Olivada (can be made a day ahead)
1½ cups of kalamata olives
4 teaspoons of fresh chopped rosemary
2 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

Chicken
1½-2kg whole organic chicken
¼ cup of melted butter or olive oil
cup dry white wine
cup chicken stock

Vegetables
1kg of mixed roasting vegetables
2 tablespoons of olive oil
Salt and pepper
Fresh thyme

To make the olivada, pit the olives if they aren't already (press down on them with the back of a kitchen knife is easiest), toss them all in a blender and wizz until you've made a paste. Stir it halfway through if the bits are clinging to the side. If you're making this a day or two before, put in in an air-tight bowl and and keep in the fridge until ready. Let it come back to room temperature before cooking otherwise it will slow the chicken getting to a safe temperature making it dry out.

For the chicken, pre-heat your oven 200ºC. While the oven is heating rinse the chook under cool running water and dry it out with either paper towel, or a hairdryer (no, really). Once that's done place the chicken on your work surface with the neck facing you and gently slip your fingers under the skin on the breast side. Continue rummaging around the gap between the skin and flesh like you're looking for your keys under the couch until the skin is separated across the breasts, legs and most of the drumsticks. Take a small handful of the olivada and insert it in the gap made looking for your keys. Keep doing that until you've filled the gap or run out of olivada. Massage the chicken to spread the olives evenly.

If by the time your oven is up to temp and your chicken is room temperature, place it on the roasting rack in your roasting tin, brush it with the melted butter and roast until the chicken has reached a safe temp 85ºC which should take about an hour and a half. Otherwise let it warm up before roasting. Add the vegetables to the bottom of the tin about half way through.

When your chook is looking like a retiree from Miami, take it out and place the roasting rack and the vegetables on a chopping board or somewhere else to rest, cover with foil to keep them warm. Put the roasting tin on the stove across two burners on medium to low and add the wine and enough chicken stock to make 1, swirl it around and scrape off all the sticky bits on the bottom of the pan, simmer and reduce to about ⅔ of a cup.

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